Hypertherm 45XP - Single side bevel

[Kwikvette]

So you are saying you replaced the HF press with this one??
https://www.trick-tools.com/Bend_Press_ ... UcQAvD_BwE

Yep, except I opted for the Deluxe kit (with 4 way die) and got the whole thing on sale. Saved a bit more when I got the air over hydraulic on Amazon for only $97 as well.

The recent work, and work I do often for a local shop, all require small parts with most of it being 3/16" steel. Helps that the brake paid for itself within 1 month of being put into service and I plan to keep it in the shop indefinitely.

I do plan to make a larger press brake that'll utilize American dies but I don't see a need at least for another year or two.

Even though I love welding and fabricating, I'm disabled so I never take on too much work at once, or work on items larger than I want to deal with.

[Kwikvette]

Forgot to mention, this is how I've got my brake mounted on my table.

Just a few shoulder bolts meant for fixture tables -





And I just use a foot pedal to operate it.

[acourtjester]

Interesting they recommend in their ad not to use a air over hydraulic for safety reasons, could over stress the press
But who is watching.

[Kwikvette]

Interesting they recommend in their ad not to use a air over hydraulic for safety reasons, could over stress the press
But who is watching.

Interesting

Even Trick-Tools commented on my video I did of this press brake, and it showed my air over hydraulic jack being used

[adbuch]

I watched this Trick Tools video and I was amazed that they seemed to get perfect 90 degree bends every time with no angle gauge or other assists.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJP-wQ-3FWI&t=15s

[adbuch]

This is my mini press brake. I think Tom may appreciate this as I know you often work with smaller hobby type parts.

David

[Kwikvette]

I watched this Trick Tools video and I was amazed that they seemed to get perfect 90 degree bends every time with no angle gauge or other assists.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJP-wQ-3FWI&t=15s

It's not hard after two or three parts.

Here's me running the press brake when it was on my other table -

https://youtu.be/T5uEly5OF2s?si=NT-_3fqL3URenNpr&t=249

But I did use my small carpenter square in the video just to ensure I didn't overbend. Since then, I don't even check for 90 until after I pull it out. I'm getting 90 every time right out of the brake.

[adbuch]

Those are some great looking parts, and a very nice shop you have there. I've got a small square that I use as well, along with a digital height gauge for repeatable bend angles. I usually end up having to make some slight adjustments to the part (once out of the press brake) to get them to exactly square. If you're doing this all the time, then you have your "feel" for the press brake dialed in for the particular parts you are making.

I have a few of the Rhino carts that look similar to your setup. I think I did buy them from Trick Tools as they offered a discount with free shipping at the time (probably around 2017 or so). Strong Hand Tools makes some great tooling as well.

Here are some photos of my Rhino carts.


Click on the link to see the slideshow.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SsDsKC4MvY7FEAkU6

Click on the link to see the slideshow.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7xdUae3eoVWjbSrL7

David

[Kwikvette]

Those are some great looking parts, and a very nice shop you have there. I've got a small square that I use as well, along with a digital height gauge for repeatable bend angles. I usually end up having to make some slight adjustments to the part (once out of the press brake) to get them to exactly square. If you're doing this all the time, then you have your "feel" for the press brake dialed in for the particular parts you are making.

I have a few of the Rhino carts that look similar to your setup. I think I did buy them from Trick Tools as they offered a discount with free shipping at the time (probably around 2017 or so). Strong Hand Tools makes some great tooling as well.

Here are some photos of my Rhino carts.


Click on the link to see the slideshow.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SsDsKC4MvY7FEAkU6
rhino carts 1.jpg




Click on the link to see the slideshow.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7xdUae3eoVWjbSrL7
rhino carts 2.jpg

David

Always liked those rhino carts, looks good!

[Kwikvette]

I just realized I never came back to report on all that happened with this ordeal after I resolved my issue.

For those that posted and followed, you know the drama.

For those that didn't and are seeing this now, I'll sum it up - new machine, new torch, new consumables = extreme bevel on only one side. Massive troubleshooting = no change. The fix? New o-rings (with fresh lube).

After the fix, I followed up with Hypertherm to basically state the solution and close the warranty claim they opened themselves. After being down for roughly 1 month, and after having wasted a lot of time troubleshooting, not to mention all the new 3/16" steel that went to waste, I asked if it would be possible to get some sort of discount for replacing my consumables.

Mind you, I had also gone through a few electrodes, nozzles, and a swirl ring as part of my troubleshooting.

They said no, there's nothing they can do and it is what it is. I was told to reach out to the seller of my torch (in this case, Baker's Gas) to which I replied, it isn't their fault as they didn't manufacture my torch...you (Hypertherm) did. I got another "oh well" and that was that.

I said screw it and called Baker's Gas only to be asked to submit an email to their customer support. If I recall correctly, it was Kevin that replied in the morning right on the next business day.

He said he would be calling me shortly after he talks to Hypertherm (my email had included the warranty claim number, and more).

Well, sure enough I got a call back with Kevin introducing himself and asking what do I feel like would be a good solution to my issue. I asked that I would be happy with some sort of discount to purchase new consumables and that was it to which Kevin replied he thinks it would be fair that Hypertherm instead REPLACE them.

Less than half an hour later I got a call back with Kevin telling him that Hypertherm apologizes for the entire ordeal, and that they will be sending me 10 electrodes and 10 nozzles - way more than I could've asked for! Not only that, if I needed anything, he would personally ensure to take care of the order with an added discount (on top of whatever sale was going on).

Hypertherm's overall support was good in that they did attempt to help me with my issue, but it was a shame that they wouldn't take responsibility for the issues I had with a brand new product.

Baker's Gas on the otherhand was ridiculously top notch!



After 1,000 pierces. I'm sure I can get more after I work on my air a bit more but not bad at all!



Also, I had taken advantage of Kevin's offer and I purchased some finecut consumables which I have to say are freaking awesome.





What I really love is how little heat the torch generates as shown in the cold rolled steel. No real "blueing" in a lot of the corners.

[adbuch]

Yes- I buy all of my Hypertherm consumables from Baker's. Wear limit for the hafnium slug is approximately 0.040".
David

[tinspark]

Yes- I buy all of my Hypertherm consumables from Baker's. Wear limit for the hafnium slug is approximately 0.040".
David

Yep, I second that motion. I only purchase all of my consumables and welding supplies online from Bakers as well. I have dropped a few nickels there, but they have been great to purchase from. Only my gas and emergency stuff are purchased from our local Barnes/Fresno Oxygen, which is also top notch for brick and mortar supplies here locally

[acourtjester]

Thanks for the reply, this adds to info that will be available to future post/questions from member or readers.
I think sometimes when dealing with companies or venders it depends on who you talk with (email) as to the reply. It can be as simple as "Good Day" or "Bad Day" reaction rather company policy. You can find some who are protecting the company's bottom line, other's for company reputation as to how they reply. As the offended person it seems their cost is nickels and dimes verse bad press.

[Kwikvette]

Yes- I buy all of my Hypertherm consumables from Baker's. Wear limit for the hafnium slug is approximately 0.040".
David

Sounds good; I'll attempt to measure the one I posted.

Right now I've got my finecut installed on my torch.

Rather than swapping out the nozzle and deflector, I have a whole set of consumables for finecut and another set for mechanized cutting I keep together like a makeshift "cartridge".



Works well so far to keep things separate!

[Kwikvette]

Yes- I buy all of my Hypertherm consumables from Baker's. Wear limit for the hafnium slug is approximately 0.040".
David

Yep, I second that motion. I only purchase all of my consumables and welding supplies online from Bakers as well. I have dropped a few nickels there, but they have been great to purchase from. Only my gas and emergency stuff are purchased from our local Barnes/Fresno Oxygen, which is also top notch for brick and mortar supplies here locally

What's going on neighbor.

My welding store go-to is Barne's in Clovis.

But that's just where I'll buy my gloves or fill my tanks. For consumables I'll be sticking with Baker's Gas.

[Kwikvette]

Thanks for the reply, this adds to info that will be available to future post/questions from member or readers.
I think sometimes when dealing with companies or venders it depends on who you talk with (email) as to the reply. It can be as simple as "Good Day" or "Bad Day" reaction rather company policy. You can find some who are protecting the company's bottom line, other's for company reputation as to how they reply. As the offended person it seems their cost is nickels and dimes verse bad press.

That's pretty much how Kevin put it, but in a more polite and tactful manner.

He didn't speak ill of them but more like, he'll get in contact with who he needs to talk to in order to make this right.

Again, extremely satisfied with the outcome since all I really wanted to do was purchase replacement consumables at a discount so I didn't feel like a sucker for throwing away new consumables due to a torch that needed new o-rings.

[acourtjester]

There is a different tip for fine cut if you want to use Ohmic sensing.

[Kwikvette]

There is a different tip for fine cut if you want to use Ohmic sensing.

My table doesn't use ohmic sensing.

[acourtjester]

If you do thin metal it is very helpful. I use a simple module, works great if you have one spare input on your controller.

[Kwikvette]

If you do thin metal it is very helpful. I use a simple module, works great if you have one spare input on your controller.

I rarely do 16 gauge, and it's the thinnest metal I run.

Mostly doing 3/16" and 1/4".

I would be replacing this table down the road with an STV table; I don't see any reason to "upgrade" anything on my current table as it's really just a hobby grade table.

[adbuch]

Yes- I buy all of my Hypertherm consumables from Baker's. Wear limit for the hafnium slug is approximately 0.040".
David

Sounds good; I'll attempt to measure the one I posted.

Right now I've got my finecut installed on my torch.

Rather than swapping out the nozzle and deflector, I have a whole set of consumables for finecut and another set for mechanized cutting I keep together like a makeshift "cartridge".



Works well so far to keep things separate!

That's exactly what I do as well.
David

[adbuch]

There is a different tip for fine cut if you want to use Ohmic sensing.

I believe what Tom may be referring to is the cap - and yes - the difference between the ohmic and non-ohmic caps is that the ohmic cap has a "strap with spade lug" that makes contact with the shield and a wire is attached to the lug for the ohmic sensing circuit.

David

[adbuch]

If you do thin metal it is very helpful. I use a simple module, works great if you have one spare input on your controller.

I rarely do 16 gauge, and it's the thinnest metal I run.

Mostly doing 3/16" and 1/4".

I would be replacing this table down the road with an STV table; I don't see any reason to "upgrade" anything on my current table as it's really just a hobby grade table.

For my Hypertherm 45xp and 85 - cutting 16 ga. steel does not provide a dross-free cut. Lot's of clean-up of all the backside dross. I very much prefer 14 ga. CR steel for artistic pieces.

David

[Kwikvette]

If you do thin metal it is very helpful. I use a simple module, works great if you have one spare input on your controller.

I rarely do 16 gauge, and it's the thinnest metal I run.

Mostly doing 3/16" and 1/4".

I would be replacing this table down the road with an STV table; I don't see any reason to "upgrade" anything on my current table as it's really just a hobby grade table.

For my Hypertherm 45xp and 85 - cutting 16 ga. steel does not provide a dross-free cut. Lot's of clean-up of all the backside dross. I very much prefer 14 ga. CR steel for artistic pieces.

David

I'm not an art guy, don't care for it.

But yeah I agree it isn't dross-free but it's pretty damn close for basic cuts on 16 gauge!

I'm a parts guy since I'm a welder/fabricator first.