football team badge

[adbuch]

the other video is made and uploaded to the Google drive when it clears I will post the link.
In the video I talk about using the outline function you can also use the fill and stroke just remove the fill to get the outline of the drawing, that is where you would also select the line thickness I use about 0.005" for plasma.

Tom - thanks for posting those! I didn't know about the outline function, so that is a big help. It looks like there was no way to modify the original svg file so that an auto trace is possible. I was sort of hoping there was. You found a similar image and imported it for your demonstration. When you were doing your "trace bitmap" you have a box you can check so it automatically updated the preview when you change the brightness threshold. Which version of Inkscape are you using? I am using version 1.0.1 and it does not seem to offer that option (or I couldn't find it). Thanks!

David

can't update.jpg

[adbuch]

Tom - I don't know why I didn't think to try this before, but I used Convertio online file converter to convert the original svg to dxf and it came out perfect. I opened it with Design Edge to check it. Then when I converted this dxf back to svg using Convertio, I could then open it with Inkscape and save as dxf with no problems. Go figure!

Of course it would still need some editing to create a nice cuttable file, which could be easily done with Inkscape following the node editing examples in the videos you just posted.

David

badge-from-convertio-svg-to-dxf image.jpg

badge from convertio - svg to dxf.dxf

badge-from-convertio-svg-to-dxf closeup image.jpg

[acourtjester]

Nice work with the conversion funny you ask about the version I am using. The Icon says 1.0 but when I go to Inkscape inside itself under about it states 0.92 and when I look in windows programs it shows 1.0.1-. I know I did update about a year ago, but on the site it shows 1.1.1 Which I did download today.
In the image below you can see the live preview box which I talked about in the video. I will update today to the new version to see if it is there too. The main thing is with your example and mine the OP can see things can be done with different software, just look for the result you like. the site shows you can download older versions of Inkscape.

version 1.0.1-.JPG

live preview.JPG

[acourtjester]

AS to your question about layering sometime the subject dictates the number, this diver has 3. Sometimes you can allow a color to show from behind using cutouts in a part that is layered. Or masking off a section only for a part to cover for a different color. The weight belt is the 3rd layer the rest is only 2 layers. the Ibus has 3. Just so the OP can see the pop of layering.

DSCN3280.JPG

DSCN2110.JPG

Man Cave 2 (1).JPG

[acourtjester]

the new version does not have the preview option, not sure if an option was removed or changed functions.

[plasmanewbie]

Wow, nice work guys and plenty of stuff to learn here also. Appreciate the efforts

[mcmental]

latestleeds.svg

[adbuch]

latestleeds.svg

That looks pretty good! You still have some intersections/crossovers to edit, but you can easily do this in Inkscape. You can select your entire image and "ungroup", then select individual elements and grab the handles to drag them around to the shape and position you want so the rectangular boxes are contained inside the larger section, and not overlapping.
David

latestleeds.dxf image 1.jpg

latestleeds ungroup.jpg

latestleeds grab handles.jpg

[adbuch]

AS to your question about layering sometime the subject dictates the number, this diver has 3. Sometimes you can allow a color to show from behind using cutouts in a part that is layered. Or masking off a section only for a part to cover for a different color. The weight belt is the 3rd layer the rest is only 2 layers. the Ibus has 3. Just so the OP can see the pop of layering.
DSCN3280.JPG
DSCN2110.JPG
Man Cave 2 (1).JPG

Those are some really nice looking pieces! Great job and very colorful. Very creative!
David

[adbuch]

the new version does not have the preview option, not sure if an option was removed or changed functions.

Tom - that real time preview is a very handy option to have. I'm not sure why they would remove it on the newer Inkscape version. As you say - perhaps it is still there and I just need to find the setting or switch to enable it.

David

[mcmental]

Had a quick go whilst on my lunch today, I will tidy the image up in Inkscape, upon looking I think the badge needs to be around 300mm height and 220mm wide

D0E21B79-21E6-4EE0-A294-AA1B4E474142.png

[acourtjester]

I see a few things that can help, your lead ins if you used them need to be longer. On lines you do not need them but you will need to watch the pierce delay time, and start at one end to the other. looks like you may have started in the middle and did a double cut for the same line. A project like that may be better done with layering of the separately cut parts, the kerf width seems to be large too.

[TJS]

Also to add to Tom's suggestions. Are you using inside offsets in your plan or no offset for the whole part. Looks like no offset to me and it is blowing apart your badge decor.
Also what tool settings are you using. If you are using the command CNC tools be careful as some do not have a pierce delay in them(the text box is blank). Use the hypertherm book and look them up and add the delay value in the text box.
What is your pierce height, what is your cut height what nozzle and voltage. Is your THC on.

[adbuch]

Had a quick go whilst on my lunch today, I will tidy the image up in Inkscape, upon looking I think the badge needs to be around 300mm height and 220mm wideD0E21B79-21E6-4EE0-A294-AA1B4E474142.png

There are a lot of things going on here, and the quality of your cuts is really not up to par with what it should be. What plasma cutter are you using, and what are your settings for cut height, pierce height, cut speed, time to pierce delay, kerf width, and amp setting? What are the dimensions of your part, what material and material thickness? If you are using Hypertherm, it is always best go with "book settings" as specified in the mechanized cut charts in the Hypertherm manual. More information is needed to try to help you with this.
David

[mcmental]

Hypertherm 45xp I’m using the book settings
3mm steel plate
I had it on no offset
I will set it up again and get photos

[adbuch]

If I were cutting your file with either my 45xp or Powermax 85, I would use the FineCut consumables. These can give better detail on the cuts, produce a narrower kerf width, and put less heat into the part for less potential for warping. Here are some sample parts I cut from 11 ga. (2.9 mm) thick hr steel using FineCut consumables. These are just the way they came from the table, with no clean-up or slag removal.

I used the Hypertherm "book" settings for Low Speed FineCut Mild Steel as shown in the cut chart below. That dross will easily scrape off, and most of it will fall of by just dropping the part onto the steel table. The FineCuts work well for 10 ga. and thinner material.

David

Front Side of parts

20211021_231943_resized.jpg

Back side of parts showing some dross

backside.jpg

Hypertherm Cut Chart

Fine Cut Low Speed Mild Steel.jpg

[adbuch]

Here is what the edge quality looks like. It might look a little bit better if I increased the cut speed slightly.
David

20211021_232057_resized.jpg

[mcmental]

Thank you, I think I got some fine cut stuff in the package