Evolution saw materials stop

[tinspark]

I broke down and purchased an evolution saw and built material cut stops for it, Saving the abrasive saw but will likely use it much less now.
I built the same basic set-up a few years back on my old chop saw that I had acquired, and it worked great. I made this one to be able to clamp a stop down and make repeatable cuts. I have been using a piece of angle a couple of inches long and vice gripping it to the angle frame, and it has worked great on my old saw as the bump stop. So I designed it basically the same.

I didn't want the (3) 1/4 20 x 1 hex bolts pulling on the new saw's cast aluminum frame, so I burned 3 washers with the attached bracket, in hopes of spreading the load a bit. I also used 2x2x3/16" angle that I had laying around as the table stop.
Also. to take up the inside radius of the angle iron, I laid a piece of 2x2x1/8" flat bar down and tac welded the edge. That gave me a nice square permanent corner to clamp my angle stop to.
I attached a few pics for what its worth.

Most videos that I have seen in the past, the OP's were making repeatable cuts, and marked all pieces individually, which is not only slower, but more prone to error IMO..
I also added a 4' removable extension on mine so that I can make up to 6' repeatable cuts. I added a few flanges in the attached dxf file as well as the foot to level the first 2' section that remains attached to my saw and on its designated cart.

[djreiswig]

This would be a good one to link over here.
viewforum.php?f=124

[tinspark]

This would be a good one to link over here.
viewforum.php?f=124

Yeah, i was kicking that around. But since i attached a dxf file i thought id put it here for some reason
I asked the moderators to move it. Good idea!
Maybe someone can use it or come up with something for their particular saw

[adbuch]

Doug - that is a very nice design and well executed. I purchased one of the Evolution saws several years ago, but have used it more for cutting large cross section aluminum stock than steel. I have mine sitting an a small roll around cart/table and use separate adjustable roller supports for cutting longer pieces. Something like what you have done, but with some sort of quick connect/disconnect to the saw, would certainly be handy for my shop applications. You have given me "food for thought".
David

[tinspark]

Doug - that is a very nice design and well executed. I purchased one of the Evolution saws several years ago, but have used it more for cutting large cross section aluminum stock than steel. I have mine sitting an a small roll around cart/table and use separate adjustable roller supports for cutting longer pieces. Something like what you have done, but with some sort of quick connect/disconnect to the saw, would certainly be handy for my shop applications. You have given me "food for thought".
David

Yeah, I was thinking about that too. quick disconnect attaching point. My short section stays permanent on the saw. But a quick disconnect would be awesome for the 4' section

[adbuch]

Doug - the one thing I don't like about the Evolution is all the little sharp bits of steel it produces when cutting. These can easily get stuck in the bottom of shoes and tracked all around the shop. I have cut steel with mine, but did it outside on the cement slab and swept/vacuumed up the mess when I was finished cutting all my parts. But other than that, it is great - especially for the larger solid stuff or thick wall round and square stock.
David

[Joe Jones]

I broke down and purchased an evolution saw and built material cut stops for it, Saving the abrasive saw but will likely use it much less now.

I broke down and bought the same saw under a different name from Northern Tool. I didn't think a toothed saw blade could cut through steel like that, but WOW! I love being able to cut extrusion without clouds of carcinogenic dust invading my lungs. I have to wear ears because this saw can sure make noise when cutting thinner metals!

Joe


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[SegoMan DeSigns]

Doug,

Starrett makes an adhesive backed tape measure you can stick to your back stop it called a "Measure Stix" they come in all config's L-R, R-L, Im sure there is other mfr's as well do some searching on Ebay or Amazon.

[tinspark]

Doug,

Starrett makes an adhesive backed tape measure you can stick to your back stop it called a "Measure Stix" they come in all config's L-R, R-L, Im sure there is other mfr's as well do some searching on Ebay or Amazon.

I will have to look that up. Thats a great idea! Thanks!

[tinspark]

I broke down and purchased an evolution saw and built material cut stops for it, Saving the abrasive saw but will likely use it much less now.

I broke down and bought the same saw under a different name from Northern Tool. I didn't think a toothed saw blade could cut through steel like that, but WOW! I love being able to cut extrusion without clouds of carcinogenic dust invading my lungs. I have to wear ears because this saw can sure make noise when cutting thinner metals!

Joe
Yeah these things are super loud, but awesome. I wear ear protection too. Noticing more ringing the older I get, so I am trying to save what I have, and wear either ear plugs or muffs when doing any loud work

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[adbuch]

Doug,

Starrett makes an adhesive backed tape measure you can stick to your back stop it called a "Measure Stix" they come in all config's L-R, R-L, Im sure there is other mfr's as well do some searching on Ebay or Amazon.

Yes - I bought some of the Starrett flex rules on Amazon for one of the fixtures on my table saw. Something called a Fritz & Franz jig. The worked great!
David

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025 ... UTF8&psc=1

Starrett tape.jpg

PS - here is one they actually have in stock.
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-SM412WM ... r=8-1&th=1

[tinspark]

Doug - the one thing I don't like about the Evolution is all the little sharp bits of steel it produces when cutting. These can easily get stuck in the bottom of shoes and tracked all around the shop. I have cut steel with mine, but did it outside on the cement slab and swept/vacuumed up the mess when I was finished cutting all my parts. But other than that, it is great - especially for the larger solid stuff or thick wall round and square stock.
David

Thats true on the shavings. I do use a small fire blanket attached to a frame mounted on my cart tabletop, behind the saw, which kept the sparks from flying across the shop when I originally installed it for the abrasive disc chop saw. I have a bunch of tubing to chop up this week so now that you mention it, I can keep an eye on it and hopefully most stays on the cart, which could be easily swept into a trash can. If not, I might have to do immediate housekeeping around the saw to keep that from happening. Hopefully my fire blanket shield will keep most of it down.
I have tracked in drill press shavings in the past and have gotten shaving fragments stuck in the carpet.
Later a barefoot innocent/ unlucky soul (aka wifey) gets a barefoot full of it in the middle of the night. No way getting out of that one!!

[Joe Jones]

Mount this magnet (minus the handle and wheels) onto the workbench behind the saw. Lay it on one side so the magnets face the rear of the saw. Fabricate a handle to pull, to release the metal particles for collection into a paint bucket or whatever. This will collect the majority of the metal particles and dust for you.

Joe

https://www.harborfreight.com/30-inch-m ... 93245.html

floor magnet.jpg

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[acourtjester]

I have on too food for thought having a deflector chute for the output metal bits to a bucket with a large magnet on the outside. when you want to empty it just remove the magnet and pour it out. With the magnet separate on the outside no metal will get to it. I have not built one yet but the idea is there.
Also there is a guy who will replace teeth and sharpen the blades for a good price, guys on the welding site swear by him.

[tinspark]

Mount this magnet (minus the handle and wheels) onto the workbench behind the saw. Lay it on one side so the magnets face the rear of the saw. Fabricate a handle to pull, to release the metal particles for collection into a paint bucket or whatever. This will collect the majority of the metal particles and dust for you.

Joe

https://www.harborfreight.com/30-inch-m ... 93245.html

floor magnet.jpg
Good idea!

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[tinspark]

I have on too food for thought having a deflector chute for the output metal bits to a bucket with a large magnet on the outside. when you want to empty it just remove the magnet and pour it out. With the magnet separate on the outside no metal will get to it. I have not built one yet but the idea is there.
Also there is a guy who will replace teeth and sharpen the blades for a good price, guys on the welding site swear by him.

I like that idea, a chute into a bucket with a magnet. I purchased a gate locking magnet on Amazon last month to play with a grinding table. It is supposed to have 600 lb holding power and needs 12 volts DC to make it work. I pulled an old 12V DC laptop/ Game chargers out of mothballs, and connected it to that magnet and Shazam!!! that thing holds great. That would possibly do the trick nicely....And I could energize it with the saw.... HMMMMMMMMM!! great idea, Thanks Tom!!

Edit: I just noticed that I actually bought the 12 v magnet on ebay , and it was 180 KG force, which is about 397 lbs pull. not 600
$23 and change. I attached a link. Wondering how this would work. I like the thought of no power no magnet. Power up and BAM!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274992318496

[tinspark]

Doug,

Starrett makes an adhesive backed tape measure you can stick to your back stop it called a "Measure Stix" they come in all config's L-R, R-L, Im sure there is other mfr's as well do some searching on Ebay or Amazon.

I just ordered this tape on Amazon. That was a great idea. We have one at work that was riveted on, and was a little cheesy, but it worked.
These are cheap enough so that replacing them every so often wont be a chore or a pain. Not cheesy,,

Here is the Animal-zon link where I bought one similar. Not a Starrett, but I have used this brand in the past (regular tape measure with belt clip) and it was accurate..

https://www.amazon.com/Komelon-F12-12-F ... 7884&psc=1

[SegoMan DeSigns]

Glad you got it figured out Doug,

I would wire wheel and slap a coat of paint on it for better adhesion.

[tinspark]

Glad you got it figured out Doug,

I would wire wheel and slap a coat of paint on it for better adhesion.

[tinspark]

Thats what I love about this forum group. I thought I might be able to help someone out with an idea, as per my original post, but instead come away with more than I have given. This place is like the gift that keeps on giving!!

[Joe Jones]

The rolling magnet is lifted by sheer weight of the magnets inside of the square aluminum (non magnetic) tube. You pull up on the handle to pull the magnets away from the collected metal fragments below it, then roll the magnet backward to leave the line of dust which can be swept up easily.

When you lay it on its side, it does not take a lot to slide the magnets forward against the side of the tube that faces the machine, or away from that face to the back, to collect the metal dust with a foxtail or a shop vac, etc. They come in two basic lengths. The short one is better for bench grinders, or a drill press and such, while the longer one would work for other tools.

If you REALLY want a scare, put a couple of large and STRONG rare earth magnets against the inside of your home air ducts, and check them six months later. You won't believe what you are breathing in!

Joe



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