STUD WELDER HELP

[saltydog]

Seem to be getting alot more multiple layer stuff.... been using 3m tape with success but the standoff look is much better. Seems that a CD stud welder is the way to go. Any suggestions on make & model???? If it will do 1/4" studs,, more that enough.

Salty Dog

[SlagBandit]

Not sure about everyone else but I use 1/4" bolts welded to the back of my parts with a alignment hole for the back section. I looked into "actual" sign standoffs and they wanted $2 a piece! Well to hell with that! $1.89 lb for a bag of 1/4" bolts. Just what I do. To each his own!

[little blue choo]

Not sure about everyone else but I use 1/4" bolts welded to the back of my parts with a alignment hole for the back section. I looked into "actual" sign standoffs and they wanted $2 a piece! Well to hell with that! $1.89 lb for a bag of 1/4" bolts. Just what I do. To each his own!

Hey SlagBandit, any photos to how you do yours?

[muzza]

You're right in wanting a CD or capacitor discharge for our lighter type work, weld mark shouldn't show through on anything from about 1.0mm material. A good system is good for mild steel, aluminium, copper and stainless. Drawn arc is really for heavier material.

Not sure if they are available over there but probably one of the most widely used ones I've come across here is the KCD Stud Welder. There are also a few Chinese ones around but the ones I've seen don't come close in performance.

A bit of info on CD http://www.kcdstudwelding.com.au/Capacitor_Discharge
Murray

[bripoe]

I tried the stud welder and it did not work for me very well. So, I also use 1/4 x 1 1/2 bolts. I put both layers together, drill a 1/4" hole through both layers. Put the bolt through the bottom layer, enlarge the hole in the top layer to 5/16. Then, weld the top of the bolt to the top layer through the hole (rosette weld). Attached at a couple of examples, I will get pictures of the actual bolts and welds later this week.

Hope this helps.

Brian

[SlagBandit]

Not sure about everyone else but I use 1/4" bolts welded to the back of my parts with a alignment hole for the back section. I looked into "actual" sign standoffs and they wanted $2 a piece! Well to hell with that! $1.89 lb for a bag of 1/4" bolts. Just what I do. To each his own!

Hey SlagBandit, any photos to how you do yours?

Here are some pictures of a simple sign I did for my son. The pictures are pretty self explanatory. You can do the same thing with multiple layered signs you just have think things through a little more. I just cut the holes for the bolts when I cut the piece. I just make sure everything lines up in CAD first. The benefit of doing it this way is you can take them apart and repaint if you don't like the colors or from age.

[SlagBandit]

Seem to be getting alot more multiple layer stuff.... been using 3m tape with success but the standoff look is much better. Seems that a CD stud welder is the way to go. Any suggestions on make & model???? If it will do 1/4" studs,, more that enough.

Salty Dog

You still looking at stud Welders?

[gamble]

Not sure about everyone else but I use 1/4" bolts welded to the back of my parts with a alignment hole for the back section. I looked into "actual" sign standoffs and they wanted $2 a piece! Well to hell with that! $1.89 lb for a bag of 1/4" bolts. Just what I do. To each his own!

Hey SlagBandit, any photos to how you do yours?

Here are some pictures of a simple sign I did for my son. The pictures are pretty self explanatory. You can do the same thing with multiple layered signs you just have think things through a little more. I just cut the holes for the bolts when I cut the piece. I just make sure everything lines up in CAD first. The benefit of doing it this way is you can take them apart and repaint if you don't like the colors or from age.

This seems like way more work than needed to get this look.
So the nuts on the back are to give it that floating off the wall look? How did you hang it on the wall?

So you line both pieces up, drill a hole through one piece, probably mark it with a marker then weld the bolt to it. Throw some nuts on the back then cut them all down. Any time I've tried anything close to this you really have to grind the crap out of the front piece to avoid seeing the haz and a little pimple of the weld from the other side.

All my layered stuff is small. The largest is maybe 12"x12" but my solution is super simple. No drilling holes or cutting or any of that fancy stuff.
Buy a lot of those small tiny rare earth magnets. I have some that are 1/16" thick. I could get thicker but I haven't had the need to yet. And simply use a dot of glue on the magnet to get it to stick to one piece. Then the magnets hold themself to the other piece. Pull apart and repaint if needed.

Some pieces I use 12 magnets and it's super strong and works well.

[SlagBandit]

Using magnets would work on smaller projects but on larger and outdoor stuff it wouldn't. As far as dimples in paint, I just turn the heat down on the MIG and move fast! I rattle can the smaller stuff and powder coat the larger outdoor stuff. It also depends on the steel you are using. If it has a mill scale or if its cold rolled makes a big difference on standoffs showing through. I generally primer all rattle can stuff so that helps cover up blemishes.

[gamble]

Using magnets would work on smaller projects but on larger and outdoor stuff it wouldn't. As far as dimples in paint, I just turn the heat down on the MIG and move fast! I rattle can the smaller stuff and powder coat the larger outdoor stuff. It also depends on the steel you are using. If it has a mill scale or if its cold rolled makes a big difference on standoffs showing through. I generally primer all rattle can stuff so that helps cover up blemishes.

So you are saying if it's got mill scale it will show through the front easier?

[saltydog]

YES..still looking.... so far the GRIZZLY CD welder is our choice. Just need to save up the $$$$$

[SlagBandit]

Using magnets would work on smaller projects but on larger and outdoor stuff it wouldn't. As far as dimples in paint, I just turn the heat down on the MIG and move fast! I rattle can the smaller stuff and powder coat the larger outdoor stuff. It also depends on the steel you are using. If it has a mill scale or if its cold rolled makes a big difference on standoffs showing through. I generally primer all rattle can stuff so that helps cover up blemishes.

So you are saying if it's got mill scale it will show through the front easier?

Yes! Cold rolled tends to clean up with a grinder a bit smoother. Just my experience.