Excellent Finish

[Copp3r]

my brother sent me this image and I must say it is a nice piece of artwork to be sure. The question I have is how did they obtain not on the copper finish but this streaked brush finish?

DSC00639%20(Large)[2]~01.jpg

[abmetal]

I get that effect when I apply the patina over the neutralizing water I've sprayed on the metal.

Allen

[steelfx]

It's a very simple, fast technique using Copper F/X & Torch F/X.

The piece was placed nearly vertical & upside down. With the Copper F/X neutralized & the metal still very wet
with the rinse water, Torch F/X can be misted in areas and allowed to run down, causing the streaking effect.

Torch F/X will produce reds & blues, depending on how long it's in contact with the steel.

hope that helps.

Bill

[Copp3r]

Thanks Bill for posting a reply.

The saddle image appears to have a clear coat of either paint or clear powder coat over top of it. I have used / am using your various FX products but haven't obtained a powder coat result like the one shown.

Any tips you might offer?

Thanks again !!!

Copp3r / roger

[steelfx]

Thanks Bill for posting a reply.

The saddle image appears to have a clear coat of either paint or clear powder coat over top of it. I have used / am using your various FX products but haven't obtained a powder coat result like the one shown.

Any tips you might offer?

Thanks again !!!

Copp3r / roger

Hi Roger,

Where I live, there are only 3 "professional" Powder-Coat companies. I use the term 'professional' very loosely.

Over the years, I've had them use 5 or 6 different clear powders. Powders from the top names, different % gloss ratings. The results have never suited me.

I use automotive top-coat (aka clear-coat) & there's absolutely no comparison. I risk offending the many great forum members that do their own powder-coat, and I pre-apologize. If it works for you, by all means, stick with it.

Their results may be perfect for them. I just never had any interest whatsoever in having my own powder-coating system & the "pros" in my area think if their work looks okay at 70mph in the dark, it's good enough.

Over the years (since the early 90's) I've tried over 20 different clear-coats & settled on PPG DELTRON DC3000 about 7 years ago. The depth of shine (film thickness is about 2mil), clarity, UV inhibitors & total cure-out (ready for shipping) in 9 minutes has me a true believer.

It's also less than a buck a square foot to use. My powder-coaters all range about $4.00 SF, with a $150 minimum.
Automotive clear does not alter the shade, color or intensity of the patinated pieces, whereas powder-coat clear
has always tended to make changes w/o my approval. Nothing huge, but the end results were never nice enough
to suit me.

You can get DELTRON DC3000 at any PPG dealer in your area that caters to the auto-body/collision market. You won't find it at a PPG house paint dealer or big-box store, at least not where I'm at. I offer it on my site as convenience for those who do not live near a dealer.

And, you'll need a clear-coat gun with a 1.3mm needle, fluid tip & air-nozzle. I've got 2 IWATA guns, one was about $180 & the other was about $425 & truthfully, I see very little difference in the two. If I was clear-coating cars (which I'm not), I probably would notice some differences.

I can shoot an oval cut scene, 24" high x 48" wide and only use about 4.5 ounces of DELTRON.

You do need ambient air temp. of 55F to shoot DELTRON, won't work very well outside in the open weather if temps are below 55. I shoot in my shop in a temp range of 65F-110F w/ no problems.

And, in the very near future, I will be offering DELTRON in a 2-stage aerosol can. I've already tested it & it's great for jobs under 8-10 sq. ft. It doesn't compare fully to shooting with a clear-coat gun, but it's a way for folks to get their 'feet wet' w/ a product that doesn't require a spray gun. Yesterday, my son (14) & I shot a top-coat on one of his bicycle frames and 3 of my cuts that were about 16" X 20" before the can ran out. I think I can offer the cans (11.8 oz.) for about $35...not 100% sure yet.

Can life is 48 hrs. after you've bumped the button on the bottom to mix the catalyst & clear within the can.

I just took a phew fotos & will post them in a bit...

thanks,

Bill

[steelfx]

Here's a photo collage that shows the clarity of the PPG DELTRON DC3000?.

I had a 1/2'' or so left in my mixing cup & after it cured I saved it & use it as a paperweight.

Also shown is the 2-stage Rattle Can Clear...coming soon. Some of the text I put on the image got cut off in the
collage...sorry.

Any questions, please let me know.

thanks!

Bill

edited: 10/17..typo
changed 1/2' to 1/2"
bw

[tnbndr]

Bill:
Is this Deltron in a can available yet?

[steelfx]

Bill:
Is this Deltron in a can available yet?

Similar quality products are available, but Deltron has yet to allow
re-packaging.

I'm using SprayMax 2K, and it works very well.
http://www.steelfxpatinas.com/shop/supp ... lear-coat/

[SeanP]

I to started using 2k clearcote by accident (literally) my daughter bumped here car leaving me to fix it! much to my disgust I had to buy some clearcote, 1.5ltrs inc hardener for 30 euro.
I'm still very new to metal art but have been using it on quite a few jobs, the finish is outstanding, and uses very little especially using a gravity fed gun, it's only a cheapie but its ideal for small stuff and so easy to clean.
So at 30euro it's cheap really, seeing as you only mix what you need.

Just not to sure about the safety of using this without an airfed mask, I'm just making up a small booth with good suction which I would have thought will be ok with the cartridge mask.

It's really hard to show the finish.
This is 5mm thick

Clip.jpg

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