So it begins... Cnc plasma table buid

[weldguy]

Looks great! I think I would weld a plate to the end of your gantry tube and bolt the end trucks on. Alternatively you could cut 1/2" think aluminum rectangles that fit in the ends of the gantry tube and bolt it in the tube from the front and the back. The gantry end trucks would bolt to that. This would eliminate any chance of warping/twisting from heat and provide a nice flat surface for the end trucks to bolt to and look super c

Gantry.PNG

lean.

[GoodB0Y]

Ya I've never used linear rails before and these supported rails are so cool! Every time I go out to the shop I have to slide it back and forth a couple times. Might be a bit autistic lmfao

Ya I like the angle aluminum route... I just want something that doesn't look jankey but holds firm.

For looks and sturdyness I could make a flange with the angle. Weld the angles to create a flange like thing. I just know that it's difficult lol. Has to be tight to the gantry beam and flat and square. If I could do that then I'd remove what needs to be removed from the flange to clear the rails.

Or like weldguy said bolt/weld a plate on the end of the gantry then through bolt it to the end plates. If I did that I'd add some angle on the bottom to add some more support.

Alot of you guys make fabricating look easy! For me it's a struggle to cut something, drill something or weld something right the first time and have it look good lmfao

Appreciate the input

[acourtjester]

One thing I will make you aware of with those linear bearings, only install them on the rod when not connected to the part. After installing the bearing on the shaft then install them to your part. They are a little tight and you will knock balls out of the bearing. (been there done that ) You can get them back in if you find them.
"Alot of you guys make fabricating look easy!" At least you are trying, many would cry in their beer and say I can't do it. Remember how much fun it is.

[SegoMan DeSigns]

This is how I tied my gantry into the skate brackets.

The gantry & cable tray supports have slots for in/out adjustments and the skates have F/R adjustment slots:

Gantry, End.jpg

I'm not saying I'm slow but I had cobwebs appear on my work

Gantry, Completed.jpg

The SxS's adds to the acceleration equation, if the red one ever wins I have serious problems..

[GoodB0Y]

That's cool!

That'll have to be my v2

[weldguy]

The SxS's adds to the acceleration equation, if the red one ever wins I have serious problems..

[GoodB0Y]

Ok so I've been decided on angle aluminum for the gantry to end plate mounting... I almost went to get some aluminum to weld to the ends of the gantry beam but I think the angle aluminum will work and look just fine. I actually really like the look of the ss bolts lol. Angle will be cut away from where the sbr rails are and once I have the machine squared I'll tack and tig weld the aluminum angle pieces together. It'll look great and b an adjustable way to mount the gantry.

Things are really coming together! My decision to use 2x4 for the gantry allows the y and x axis steppers to clear each other with over 1/4 of an inch of clearance between them. The y axis steppers mount to the gantry plate inside the table but above the bottom of the gantry. Unfortunately the belts will be outside the gantry plates and add to my overall width... Still looking at other solutions...

Cutting area should be 34x 53 which exceeds my expectations. FYI I bought rails at 1 meter and 1.5 meter or 39.5x59 inches. I could and thought about cutting them down... But couldn't bring myself to making the cutting area smaller

I was going to put all the limit switches on the gantry. Now leaning towards having the y axis limits mounted at the end of the rails for less moving wires and mass. Those limit switches will also be routed inside the rails to improve shielding.

Going to use a mix of limit switches... I found some optical ones that might serve some instances better than standard ones. The optical switches have some of the best overall accuracy...

The torch break away is going to be based on the post in this thread... Magnets and ball bearings. Except for mine I'm going to use acorn nuts and use the bearing block bolts with an acorn nut. Looking at the acorn nuts (5mm) they pretty much have the same profile as a ball bearing. This will help keep things simple and light.

I've been reading alot and have decided on the everlast 52i with the messa bored and thc running raw voltage. I still have more reading to do but it seems that all budget plasma cutters have issues with their divided voltage output so I might go raw


Anyway I just wanted to share... If you can't tell I'm pretty excited to finally have some ideas and solutions. Time to start building again!

Thank you for everyone's input!

[weldguy]

Exciting stuff! Looking forward to seeing your completed gantry

[SegoMan DeSigns]

GoodBOY,

Does your gantry design allow for your sheet metal to be indexed? This is handy for doing jobs larger than your table and allows you to use a full sheet vs preparing sheets that fit your tables foot print..

[acourtjester]

If you are using Mesa you can use their THCAD-300 card for the THC and you can use the low voltage ARC voltage in, it is selectable. Using the Raw volts in not as safe as the lower voltage, If the Everlast has a CNC port output for the Arc voltage. You are looking at from 80 to 135 volts out for the Raw. I used the 20:1 from my PM65 and it works fine.
Also if you want to use a Ohmic sensor on your table I have a circuit (opto-isolated) that is very cheap and works great. I have used on some table I built and with different electronics controllers no noise problems either.

Ohmic sensor 12 volt.JPG

Ohmic relay box (2).JPG

[GoodB0Y]

GoodBOY,

Does your gantry design allow for your sheet metal to be indexed? This is handy for doing jobs larger than your table and allows you to use a full sheet vs preparing sheets that fit your tables foot print..

I will not be able to cut full sheets because I made a design decision to have my gantry move along the short side. My original thought was 30ish inches by 48. I'm well past that with what I have now. I total understand that it limits my ability a little bit but honestly I'm ok with it. And the table is JUST going to fit in where it's new home is when not in use. It's already way past where I wanted as far as size... Lol

Now as far as indexing I will be able to use longer sheets on the short width.... I honestly don't think I'll do much more than 30x48 but I could if I wanted. I've read a little on indexing and cutting longer cuts then the table can. Seems mostly software and some careful measuring.

This table is mostly for me and if it's anything like my powder coating setup I'll probably only use it a handful of times a year for projects of mine and a handful of friends..usually winter is my shop project time and summer is 5-6 days a week of work and summer activities

If you are using Mesa you can use their THCAD-300 card for the THC and you can use the low voltage ARC voltage in, it is selectable. Using the Raw volts in not as safe as the lower voltage, If the Everlast has a CNC port output for the Arc voltage. You are looking at from 80 to 135 volts out for the Raw. I used the 20:1 from my PM65 and it works fine.

Agreed that high voltage isn't something to take lightly. Just lots of threads about the everlast and a couple other budget plasma cutters having issues with the divided and raw voltage from the cnc port... Maybe everlast has updated the cnc port electronics I'll have to look at it.

I appreciate the drawing and yes the omc might be something that I should add...

Exciting stuff! Looking forward to seeing your completed gantry

Absolutely! I'm so close to having something that looks like a cnc table

[GoodB0Y]

So I managed to get my end plates mounted to the y axis (man I'm still not sure what axis is what lol) hgr rails bearing blocks.

Unfortunately I had issues with my cheap amazon tap so I buggered a couple holes mounting the rails, so I couldn't finish. I'll have to grind and tig the old holes and re drill ugh!

But I got it roughed in and I think I could run the belt and idlers on the inside. The bearing blocks space the end plate about an inch and 1/8 away from the beam... Lots of room for the belt and pulleys.... I'd Shroud it with some thing...And keep the belt inside and below the y axis beam. Of course the worry is something falling on the belt but the teeth of the belt are on the bottom...I think I'm going to give it a try. I could always easily redo it with the belts on the outside.

I'd have to space the stepper (nema 23) away from the end plates. Could I use some small diameter dom tubing or aluminum tubing? Would that be strong enough?
Thoughts?

[acourtjester]

As far as the axis name goes, how you wire the motors to the controller is the configuration of the axis. Some configure their table like I do and others switch the X and Y configuration. When you do your planning in the CAM software you orientate the parts to be cut as you have the metal and direction that way. With 2 motors on one axis you just slave the second motor to the axis you chose.

axis corrdinate.jpg

axis direction.jpg

[cuttinparts]

But I got it roughed in and I think I could run the belt and idlers on the inside. The bearing blocks space the end plate about an inch and 1/8 away from the beam... Lots of room for the belt and pulleys.... I'd Shroud it with some thing...And keep the belt inside and below the y axis beam. Of course the worry is something falling on the belt but the teeth of the belt are on the bottom...I think I'm going to give it a try. I could always easily redo it with the belts on the outside.

I'd have to space the stepper (nema 23) away from the end plates. Could I use some small diameter dom tubing or aluminum tubing? Would that be strong enough?
Thoughts?

Nema 23 will use fairly small diameter mounting bolts so I would use 3/5" or 1/2" alum bar stock drilled through the center just a little bigger than the diameter of your mounting bolts and use those for spacers. Not sure you will find tubing with ideal OD and ID. Like this topic, have enjoyed reading it.

[GoodB0Y]

Ya I think the bolts are 5mm

I did find some aluminum tube at 5mm ID and 10mm OD.

The spacing won't b much more than the gt2 pully.

I like the bar stock idea... I just imagine that there's going to be a lot of stress on the motor...

Appreciate the input!

[GoodB0Y]

As far as the axis name goes, how you wire the motors to the controller is the configuration of the axis. Some configure their table like I do and others switch the X and Y configuration. When you do your planning in the CAM software you orientate the parts to be cut as you have the metal and direction that way. With 2 motors on one axis you just slave the second motor to the axis you chose.

Ok so what your telling me is that there isn't a LAW that says it needs to be this or that... I like it!

In my head it seems like my x axis is the long width. The y axis is the short (gantry) width. And the z sits on the gantry... Xyz.

Going to use that going forward, thanks for explaining it to me!

[acourtjester]

For the mounting bolts I used 10-32 machine screws is a good fit, you can get socket head for them. The round head are slightly to large and will scrub the body of the motor but do work.

[SegoMan DeSigns]

Ok so what your telling me is that there isn't a LAW that says it needs to be this or that... I like it!

In my head it seems like my x axis is the long width. The y axis is the short (gantry) width. And the z sits on the gantry... Xyz.

Going to use that going forward, thanks for explaining it to me!

GoodB0Y,

Your home may be in any corner you choose, I mounted the control head to the corner I call home. My X is L-R and Y is F-B, this layout matches the wide screen monitors I use. I do sign work and it makes letters / numbers easier to work with and keeps me from having to rotate the drawing prior to CAM work.

IMG_20211205_124751236.jpg

[djreiswig]

In my head it seems like my x axis is the long width. The y axis is the short (gantry) width. And the z sits on the gantry... Xyz.

That's the way mine is. Gantry moving is X, Along gantry is Y, and up/down is Z.
It's how it is aligned on my screen, so that's how it got assigned.

[GoodB0Y]

Beer cans come in handy

But you can get the idea of where I want to put my idler pulleys and belt. The x axis steppers will mount behind the gantry and just above the bottom of it... 10mm belt unless someone says that I need a bigger belt. 10mm is the belt jd garage uses which got me wanting to build this haha.

Seeing as this is a hobby machine what is everyones thought on the bolt and bearing idlers? Looking at the idlers available they don't look overly good.

Excuse the mess and the ugly aluminum plate... Got the aluminum plate cheap lol. The mess... Is the cost of progress

[adbuch]

As far as the axis name goes, how you wire the motors to the controller is the configuration of the axis. Some configure their table like I do and others switch the X and Y configuration. When you do your planning in the CAM software you orientate the parts to be cut as you have the metal and direction that way. With 2 motors on one axis you just slave the second motor to the axis you chose.
axis corrdinate.jpg
axis direction.jpg

Tom - all of my cnc tables and machining centers follow this convention (shown below). For the cnc routers, cnc plasma, etc. the gantry moves in the "Y" direction and the carriage moves in the "X" direction along the gantry. Z is vertical as you have shown. For my cnc routers and plasma tables - sometimes the home position is at the upper left corner (Plasmacam and AvidCNC/Centroid) and sometimes home position is at the lower left corner (AvidCNC/Mach3).



David

axis direction.jpg

[acourtjester]

Well as I said "Some configure their table like I do and others switch the X and Y configuration" either way it works. And you are driving the CAM software and the table so it works great for you. All are right and have not heard which way is more right.
For sure GoodBoy is making progress and that is a good thing. I'm sure he will be as happy as we were when we saw the first sparks from our tables.

[adbuch]

Well as I said "Some configure their table like I do and others switch the X and Y configuration" either way it works. And you are driving the CAM software and the table so it works great for you. All are right and have not heard which way is more right.
For sure GoodBoy is making progress and that is a good thing. I'm sure he will be as happy as we were when we saw the first sparks from our tables.

Yes - it will work either way. I was just reporting how mine are set up. GoodBoy is coming along fine for sure! We hope to see him up and cutting soon.

David

[GoodB0Y]

One thing I would recommend is to use flat head machine screws, it make attaching another plate on top easier.
DSCN2496.JPG
When you want to shorten the shafts they are hardened so a cut off wheel in an angle grinder works great.

And the light bulb goes off

How do I mount my limit switches with all these dam bolt heads in the way?

Oh yeah counter sunk bolts!

Thank you!

[acourtjester]

We are all allowed a few "oops" when fabricating it goes with the territory. Better to find them now.