David I have not used the 1/4" ones but the 10-32 ones, I used the dimension the step below the knurled section. In your diagram it would be the 8.65, I use a soldering pencil to heat mine. And push it in and stop when there is still some of the insert sticking out. Then use a flat object to finish pushing the insert to be flush with the surface. The flat object is larger then then the insert, this helps to insure the insert is straight. It also helps to cool the insert at its final depth. I would do a few test runs to establish how hot to get the insert, to hot and it may not stay aligned with the surface. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7nHyI1 ... Markforged https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC1LLU5 ... GeekDetour
DIY 4X4 Plasma/Router Table
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
Tom - thanks for the information and videos. I will check them out. I bought one of these little heated install tools from Amazon, but have not tried it out yet. That is a good idea about using the larger block of metal to push them in flush. I will keep you posted.
Tom - this is intended to be a 3D printed mounting bracket for the Dewalt router to attach to the Plasmacam or equivalent Z-bracket. I made this same design from aluminum and have been using it on my diy cnc router table. That bracket is the same one I used on my Plasmacam table back when I first got the table and was trying out some "engraving" using a 1/4" endmill into some aluminum plate. It actually worked pretty well.