Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
- Tristar500
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Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
I've added a drill to the CNC plasma cutter and wanted to know if anybody here could offer any help on setting this up with Mach 3, and sheetcam.
I'm guessing I'll need to tell the machine to offset for the drill.
I'm not sure what the best/easiest way is to do this.
Thanks Guys!
I'm guessing I'll need to tell the machine to offset for the drill.
I'm not sure what the best/easiest way is to do this.
Thanks Guys!
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- Tristar500
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
The drill is a Buckeye® Fixtured Drill. it's air-powered and when triggered to start it will spin up then extend the bit down to the material and then retract once it reaches its maximum extension telling the unit the hole has been drilled to the proper depth.(In my case Im just drilling holes in sheep steel but it works the same way.)
I need to figure out how to manage the offset and also figure out how to modify a PP to move into position over the first drill position and stop. Ill manually trigger the drill, let it do it's thing, then tell mach 3 to move on to the next hole position.
Any ideas on how to do this relatively simply?
Thanks in advance all!
I need to figure out how to manage the offset and also figure out how to modify a PP to move into position over the first drill position and stop. Ill manually trigger the drill, let it do it's thing, then tell mach 3 to move on to the next hole position.
Any ideas on how to do this relatively simply?
Thanks in advance all!
- Joe Jones
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
The problem I see is that when you drill using a drill press, you FEEL the bit cutting through the material. you increase or decrease the pressure to find that "sweet spot" where the bit is cutting through and giving you that satisfying curl of steel that worms its way out of the hole as it is being drilled.
A cnc machine is not designed to apply physical pressure down onto the material,or adjust it, or increase or decrease it based on the way the bit is cutting, etc. So I am not sure how well this would work for you. If you just use a slow Z speed, you might spin the bit into dullness. To fast, and you will break the bit. The bit can grab the material, or shift it on the table grates, or even break the table's Z motor or assembly when the material wins out over the bit.
If you want accuracy, use a drill bit to make a precise dimple where you can either hand drill the hole later, or put the material under a drill press, or use a mag drill, etc. I would not try to use a cnc table to DRILL the holes through steel, or aluminum, or even hard woods, etc.
Joe
A cnc machine is not designed to apply physical pressure down onto the material,or adjust it, or increase or decrease it based on the way the bit is cutting, etc. So I am not sure how well this would work for you. If you just use a slow Z speed, you might spin the bit into dullness. To fast, and you will break the bit. The bit can grab the material, or shift it on the table grates, or even break the table's Z motor or assembly when the material wins out over the bit.
If you want accuracy, use a drill bit to make a precise dimple where you can either hand drill the hole later, or put the material under a drill press, or use a mag drill, etc. I would not try to use a cnc table to DRILL the holes through steel, or aluminum, or even hard woods, etc.
Joe
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
That's a neat drill, and I think your setup should work fine for drilling small holes - say around 1/8" or so. Tom is pretty well versed with Mach3 - and hopefully will respond later today with some useful information for you. By the way, when I drill holes with either my cnc lathe or cnc machining center, I use "Peck Drilling" where it will move the Z axis down for a specified distance - say 0.050" or so - do a full retract, and then move to where it left off and drill for another 0.050", etc. I am using flood coolant with both machines and this gives a chance for the chips to clear out of the hole. I use the same technique when I drill manually on a drill press, or by hand.Tristar500 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 17, 2024 7:24 pm The drill is a Buckeye® Fixtured Drill. it's air-powered and when triggered to start it will spin up then extend the bit down to the material and then retract once it reaches its maximum extension telling the unit the hole has been drilled to the proper depth.(In my case Im just drilling holes in sheep steel but it works the same way.)
I need to figure out how to manage the offset and also figure out how to modify a PP to move into position over the first drill position and stop. Ill manually trigger the drill, let it do it's thing, then tell mach 3 to move on to the next hole position.
Any ideas on how to do this relatively simply?
Thanks in advance all!
"Peck drilling is a drilling method that involves making a hole in a series of steps, rather than drilling to the full depth in one go. It's often used when drilling holes that are deeper than three times the diameter of the drill bit.
Peck drilling has several benefits, including:
Easier chip removal: It's easier to remove chips and debris from the hole than with direct drilling.
Better tool accuracy: Peck drilling helps support tool accuracy and minimizes walking.
Prevents chip packing: Peck drilling prevents chips from packing and breaking.
Improved drill life: Peck drilling can help improve drill life, especially in micro-drilling. "
David
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- Tristar500
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Yes, I'll be just doing 1/8 holes and then drill by hand if needed. I use the G83 for nearly all hole drilling on my mill.adbuch wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2024 4:52 amThat's a neat drill, and I think your setup should work fine for drilling small holes - say around 1/8" or so. Tom is pretty well versed with Mach3 - and hopefully will respond later today with some useful information for you. By the way, when I drill holes with either my cnc lathe or cnc machining center, I use "Peck Drilling" where it will move the Z axis down for a specified distance - say 0.050" or so - do a full retract, and then move to where it left off and drill for another 0.050", etc. I am using flood coolant with both machines and this gives a chance for the chips to clear out of the hole. I use the same technique when I drill manually on a drill press, or by hand.Tristar500 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 17, 2024 7:24 pm The drill is a Buckeye® Fixtured Drill. it's air-powered and when triggered to start it will spin up then extend the bit down to the material and then retract once it reaches its maximum extension telling the unit the hole has been drilled to the proper depth.(In my case Im just drilling holes in sheep steel but it works the same way.)
I need to figure out how to manage the offset and also figure out how to modify a PP to move into position over the first drill position and stop. Ill manually trigger the drill, let it do it's thing, then tell mach 3 to move on to the next hole position.
Any ideas on how to do this relatively simply?
Thanks in advance all!
"Peck drilling is a drilling method that involves making a hole in a series of steps, rather than drilling to the full depth in one go. It's often used when drilling holes that are deeper than three times the diameter of the drill bit.
Peck drilling has several benefits, including:
Easier chip removal: It's easier to remove chips and debris from the hole than with direct drilling.
Better tool accuracy: Peck drilling helps support tool accuracy and minimizes walking.
Prevents chip packing: Peck drilling prevents chips from packing and breaking.
Improved drill life: Peck drilling can help improve drill life, especially in micro-drilling. "
peck drilling.jpg
David
- acourtjester
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Here is a video I made years ago about aligning the torch ( or drill/router bit) to a laser crosshair indicator. You can change the Jog step distance in Mach 3 to move in finer increments to get exact alignments for the position. Click on the "Tab" key and a slide out menu will show on the right. You need to watch the directions you move to get to the location, in the command you use to move the torch/bit as to plus or minus directions. If you want to use the plasma torch only then make a dimple with the torch as reference mark then move to the bit location. This process works with other software and controller electronics, I have used it with UCCNC and LinuxCNC as well.
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- Tristar500
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
I like that. Looks like it makes things simple.acourtjester wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2024 10:16 am Here is a video I made years ago about aligning the torch ( or drill/router bit) to a laser crosshair indicator. You can change the Jog step distance in Mach 3 to move in finer increments to get exact alignments for the position. Click on the "Tab" key and a slide out menu will show on the right. You need to watch the directions you move to get to the location, in the command you use to move the torch/bit as to plus or minus directions. If you want to use the plasma torch only then make a dimple with the torch as reference mark then move to the bit location. This process works with other software and controller electronics, I have used it with UCCNC and LinuxCNC as well.
Would you mind posting that script? I couldn't make it out on the screen. I'd like to give that a try.
Thanks!!
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Sure after you have the distance noted and the direction lets say X-3.221 and Y 1.55 the first command that I did not have will be a g92 to clear out the DROs. this can be a simple G-code you have as a file to load or placed in the software connected to a button on the screen.
G92 x0 y0 zero out the DROs
G1 x-3.221 y 1.55 f40 you can change the speed to what you like I just showed F40 as a ball park
g92 x0 y0. re-zero out the DROs after move to start position
G92 x0 y0 zero out the DROs
G1 x-3.221 y 1.55 f40 you can change the speed to what you like I just showed F40 as a ball park
g92 x0 y0. re-zero out the DROs after move to start position
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- SegoMan DeSigns
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Adding an air drill to the table is no different to adding an air scribe. I Have a spot on my gantry for both, Some of the units allow the use of a tapping head as well.The Blackalloy brand can develop up to 600 psi down force, this is why Pele's gantry was built H D
The benefits of using air is down force / speed / rotation can be control by air relays / regulators. an adjustable mechanical stop on the down / up stroke would prevent drilling to deep or having to do a full cycle prior to moving to next hole. Air motors can be stopped / reversed instantly without damaging things. A coolant / oiling system would extend bit life.
If you are going to automate the drilling process. you would need a chart of drill times for each size of bit / thickness of metal drilled for the programming of the drilling pause cycles. You would need to incorporate a material hold down clamp so the smaller pieces would not walk off and a retractable hold down to prevent the metal from rising with the drill as shown in the following vid.
A mechanical drill process would just need a move to position and pause command / then drill manually / move to next hole manual command. Piece of cake right??
Blackalloy taping system:
Blackalloy site:
https://www.blackalloy.com/
The benefits of using air is down force / speed / rotation can be control by air relays / regulators. an adjustable mechanical stop on the down / up stroke would prevent drilling to deep or having to do a full cycle prior to moving to next hole. Air motors can be stopped / reversed instantly without damaging things. A coolant / oiling system would extend bit life.
If you are going to automate the drilling process. you would need a chart of drill times for each size of bit / thickness of metal drilled for the programming of the drilling pause cycles. You would need to incorporate a material hold down clamp so the smaller pieces would not walk off and a retractable hold down to prevent the metal from rising with the drill as shown in the following vid.
A mechanical drill process would just need a move to position and pause command / then drill manually / move to next hole manual command. Piece of cake right??
Blackalloy taping system:
Blackalloy site:
https://www.blackalloy.com/
- acourtjester
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Hey does the thing make coffee
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- Tristar500
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
acourtjester wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2024 11:36 am Sure after you have the distance noted and the direction lets say X-3.221 and Y 1.55 the first command that I did not have will be a g92 to clear out the DROs. this can be a simple G-code you have as a file to load or placed in the software connected to a button on the screen.
G92 x0 y0 zero out the DROs
G1 x-3.221 y 1.55 f40 you can change the speed to what you like I just showed F40 as a ball park
g92 x0 y0. re-zero out the DROs after move to start position
Looks like Ill need a new screen set.
Which one are you using there?
- acourtjester
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
You can change the screens by going to view and chick on load screen, it will show the ones you have on your system. After you select one it will blank the screen for a few seconds and then display the one you selected. the one I use is Plasma.set there is another one called 1024.set, there may be other on your disk.. you may need to scroll down the page to see them. I also use that one for calibrating the steps per for the axis motors.
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Drag Knife and Scribe
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Small Mill
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- SegoMan DeSigns
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Here is some more information on Tristar500 self drilling system:
https://www.dobcoeqp.com/info/products/ ... log%20.pdf
Tom I don't see the coffee grinder/maker attachment..
https://www.dobcoeqp.com/info/products/ ... log%20.pdf
Tom I don't see the coffee grinder/maker attachment..
- Tristar500
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
I think this drill is going to make a pretty sweet setup. being pneumatic for both the rotational movement as well as the plunge to cut then retract is pretty amazing, all with no electronics or sensors.SegoMan DeSigns wrote: ↑Tue Nov 19, 2024 12:01 pm Here is some more information on Tristar500 self drilling system:
https://www.dobcoeqp.com/info/products/ ... log%20.pdf
Tom I don't see the coffee grinder/maker attachment..
I like the idea or using adjustable air pressure to force the bit down into the material at a force I can adjust. I think this is much better than a simple fixed spindle being powered down by the Z axis. I'll post a vid.
- acourtjester
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
I would think it should be different for steel verse aluminum
"I like the idea or using adjustable air pressure to force the bit down into the material at a force I can adjust."
"I like the idea or using adjustable air pressure to force the bit down into the material at a force I can adjust."
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Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
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Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
- Tristar500
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Looking good, have you figured out your offsets yet? plug those number into a modified air marker P P and get it on the payroll
- Tristar500
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Re: Added Drill Head. How to do offsets and PP?
Yeah, I got pretty close offset values. I'll get it working then tweak them to get the last bit of accuracy.SegoMan DeSigns wrote: ↑Tue Nov 19, 2024 3:07 pm Looking good, have you figured out your offsets yet? plug those number into a modified air marker P P and get it on the payroll
I'm using the THC2 from CNC4PC. I've been working with the company for more than a year now and it's a great THC.
Need some help from their tech dept to integrate a post and possibly modify some screen buttons.