Anycubic Kobra Max

[adbuch]

I think your parts look pretty good! The main thing is that they are functional. Print parameters that might possibly affect your surface finish include print speed, layer height (layer thickness/resolution), infill (fill density), extruder temperature, and filament quality. I'm not sure that your table moving around will cause problems, but perhaps add some ballast weight to the bottom of the table or bolt it to the floor. If you wish to share your print file (stl) with me, I will print out a few samples on my printers for comparison, post photos of the results, and let you know what parameters I use.

David

[acourtjester]

since it seems to be on the outer perimeter of the surface you may loo at the tightness of the axis rollers. I have also read where some put their printers on a foam pad to allow the printer to float somewhat with the faster movements.
I think if the Prusa slicer had your printer in its post processor files, most of the setting are already where they should be. Here is what you may look at for that, try slowing them down or speed up a slight amount. You can just save it with a different name to save the original file. After it is saved it will show the new and old file name for you to select for the slicing testing.

speed.JPG

[acourtjester]

check this out

[OTHill]

I think your parts look pretty good! The main thing is that they are functional. Print parameters that might possibly affect your surface finish include print speed, layer height (layer thickness/resolution), infill (fill density), extruder temperature, and filament quality. I'm not sure that your table moving around will cause problems, but perhaps add some ballast weight to the bottom of the table or bolt it to the floor. If you wish to share your print file (stl) with me, I will print out a few samples on my printers for comparison, post photos of the results, and let you know what parameters I use.

David

Toque circle male .2-BodySketch.stl

Here is 1 stl file I think this is thr right way.
Thanks Allan

[OTHill]

One thing I noticed even right after assembly is that the Z axis has about 1/32 in. Up and down play in the drive nut. Is that adjustable?

[OTHill]

This is the stock shark that came with the printer. I'm totally impressed with that.

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[adbuch]

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[acourtjester]

I have 2 Anycubic printers, one have no Z up/down play the other had a slight movement on one end with no power on.
Not sure if it can be adjusted (both have dual Z leadscrews) possible way may be to loosen the setscrew in that side coupling and turn it slightly retighten the setscrew?? SWAG on my part

[kicktillmonday]

Man, you guys are making some cool stuff! If I had time to play with one I would love to get into it.

David, what is that part you made? Surface finish looks awesome! Is that right off the machine like that?

[adbuch]

Man, you guys are making some cool stuff! If I had time to play with one I would love to get into it.

David, what is that part you made? Surface finish looks awesome! Is that right off the machine like that?

The part I printed (yellow round part) is just a test print of the file that Allan posted above. Yes - this is right off the printer with no post processing other than separating the part from the raft.

David

[adbuch]

I get the best quality smoothest prints with the Hatchbox PLA filament.

[urlhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0GRREW/re ... UTF8&psc=1][/url]

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[adbuch]

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[acourtjester]

For those not using 3-D printing there are additional borders you can print around the project shape for support or helping the project adhesion to the printer bed (print surface). The attached screen shot shows their names, I use the skirt which is a line around the project to start the filament flowing.
David's Raft gives more surface (thicker) around the project this helps to keep the first layers to adhere to the print bed. But they are all designed to just snap off after the project is printed.
this explains them better
https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/ar ... and-brims/

[adbuch]

The slicers for my FlashForge printers use a skirt by default - in fact I know of no way to eliminate it. The bed adhesion on my smaller printer is pretty good so I don't often use a raft unless I am using supports. On my larger printer the bed has a different surface texture than my smaller printer and as such requires a raft for successful prints. On the particular parts shown below (printed from PLA filament) I was experiencing problems with bed adhesion and warping when printed the first several test parts. The addition of a raft and brim plus raising the bed temp and extruder temp by 10 degrees C each resolved my problem.

rafts, skirts, brims.jpg

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[OTHill]

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Thanks for the response all of you. David your part finish is really nice. I'm very slow at absorbing all this info but I'll get there eventually. If you will look close at my first print you can see what looks almost like a partially missing last layer precisely in line with both alignment pins. I did another print today with trial pins and it did the same again. Like this.

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I'll have a lot more questions yet it seems like but gonna play around on my own too. Tom you have the anycubic printers. I'm wondering what your settings are and what kind of filament you use? Maybe I'm overlooking some things you all have posted already?

[adbuch]

Allan - are you talking about the areas circled in red?

these areas.jpg

[adbuch]

I hadn't noticed these before, but I assume you are talking about the areas circled in red on your original print.

these areas 1.jpg

[OTHill]

Yes that's right.

[adbuch]

Yes that's right.

Allan,
It didn't have that problem when I printed it, so I expect you have a problem either with your slicer of your actual printer. Perhaps that 1/32" Z axis play (slop) is causing your problem. Maybe send your file to Tom and have him do a test print for comparison since he has the same printer.
David

[acourtjester]

I use PETG for the last few rolls of filament, David's prints really look great I may try that brand soon. I will print the STL file Allan posted above today so I can show how it turns out. You may need to post the STL file with the 3 pins for a complete comparison. That is a funny artifact you are showing with the shadow of the pins. I have not printed many parts with pin sticking up. but many with holes in them. It may happen due to the shift from surface and infill at the pin location another SWAG on my part.

[OTHill]

Ok thanks both of you I'll do that after the weekend.

[acourtjester]

Well my surface did not come out as nice as David's the pins are 0.250" in diameter.
David you may try glue sticks for the warping problem on your one printer.

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[adbuch]

Well my surface did not come out as nice as David's the pins are 0.250" in diameter.
David you may try glue sticks for the warping problem on your one printer.
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Tom - as I said - increasing the build plate temp and nozzle extrude temp plus adding a brim solved my problem. I think it was just a matter of getting the parameters "dialed in" to achieve optimum results. Sometimes we call that "fine-tuning". I have never tried using a glue stick with the 3D printing. I will look into it to find out more details.

I did not try printing these larger parts on the small printer, so I don't know what the result would have been there. I am using my FlashForge Creator 3 for these large parts. This particular printer has dual independent extruders, which allows me to print two duplicate parts at the same time. Print time is the same, so this cuts the print time per part in half. When printing lots of parts with a 7 hour plus print time - this makes the process more efficient.

David

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[adbuch]

Tom - I tried printing Allan's part on my smaller printer for comparison. Here is the result. Not nearly as nice as the yellow part cosmetically.

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Here is a comparison of the same part from the two different printers.

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I also printed a test part with some 1/4" pins on both printers for comparison.
Both are printed from PLA - the yellow is the Hatchbox brand and the red is the FlashForge brand. Also two different slicers.

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[adbuch]

I have printed other parts on my small printer with excellent results, also from PLA using the same slicer and settings. So I'm really not sure what is going on with these parts with the protruding pins. I have noticed that on some other previous parts printed on the same small printer, parts with larger flat surfaces, the same problem with the "streaking" occurs.

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