Looking for some help dialing in a Proma SD on a new machine

[robertspark]

@robertspark I just re-read your post viewtopic.php?f=4&t=30670&start=100#p187017 I can use the anti dive % with a code snippet in sheetcam that can drop the feedrate. A lot to learn here... Do you have a default set of code snippets/path rules and post processor that use on all jobs or do you find you need to tweak depending on the paths for the specific job and materials?

Two path rules I can recommend:

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On circles smaller than 25mm set feedrate to 75% and output code AVCOFF

On corners tighter than 10 degrees set feedrate to 100% and output code AVCOFF 5mm before corner and Output Code AVCON 1mm After corner.

AVCOFF and AVCON are gcodes.
with either M206 & M205 in them or M212 or M211 depending upon your setup.

Looking at your pieces I would recommend you just check your pierce delay (make sure THC is enabled / on so that uccnc waits for ARCOK before the delay starts).

hence I recommend that M205 is always enabled and just inhibit downward motion with M212 and M211

[xnaron]

@robertspark - I'm not sure if you posted your post processor before but would you be able to post it here so I can take a look at it?

[xnaron]

Oh and I did check that THC was on. I tried running the code with THC on and the plasma off and it just stops at the pierce waiting for the arc ok. I have to admit in the video it doesn't look like it is dropping after the pierce but it's hard to tell. When I run it with THC off it definitely does a relay on and then drops after the pierce delay.

[xnaron]

Two path rules I can recommend:

Code: Select all

On circles smaller than 25mm set feedrate to 75% and output code AVCOFF

Is there a reason you did not turn AVCON after the circle?

Here is what I will try. With my setup with the proma SD I need to turn off the relay that controls the 50:1 voltage going to the Proma. This will disable the z movement (at least in theory). I have that relay mapped to THC on and off.

[xnaron]

Now on to some projects. I am happy the way this table turned out for my band saw. In the video the first time I have heard the fan come on in the Powermax 65. This is the first 65 amp cut I've done with any significant duration. I choes to make the slot for the band saw blade with a cut on the line. @robertsparks rules implemented but I forgot to make the changes to my post. I am happy with the cut almost 0 dross.

[Zukzilla]

Im running the proma sd aswell found that i had to use a dual pole relay to switch it on and off quick enough to be usable.
By using a dual pole on the z inputs i can turn it between the controler and the proma super quick. It now responds well.

I also recomend raw voltage. I had no luck with divided infact it solved alot of issues going raw

[robertspark]

If it were me, and I was trying to improve the Proma SD.....

I would buy a tri-state buffer DIP chip and solder it to a small pcb with a few 2.54mm (100mil) screw terminal connectors, and a 2k2 resistor to bias the enable pin active (LOW)

I would then wire the Step & Dir output FROM the Proma SD via the PCB before routing it off to the stepper driver.

I would then use a synchronous macro (M211/M212 macro in uccnc) to toggle the enable pin LOW / OFF which will inhibit the buffer chip from transmitting the datastream to the drive.

note: M11/M10 won

This is different from what you are doing because the voltage will then always be sensed by the PROMA-SD and there is no stabilisation period required from when you renable the voltage feed to the promaSD.

I presume that the promaSD has some sort of an low pass filter and it may also run a running average filter too internally.

A chip such as 74HCT241N will probably do what you want.... but there are many other alternatives too (note it is an 8 output chip, (octal), there are hex ones too (6 output) and probably dual too.... whatever is cheap and is a TTL output will be fine ( TTL drives zero volt to 5 volt logic)

https://docs.rs-online.com/70f9/A700000006908659.pdf

with the AXBB-E (or other UC motion controllers or even the smooth stepper) pin 26 of the 26pin IDC connector provides a 5V power source for your new THC buffer board..... or you can just tap into your 5V power supply for the AXBB-E to serve your new PCB

this is just my opinion, YMMV and you may have other ideas to do something similar.

relays do not have the cleanest of make / break and they are not the fastest ways of breaking digital signals + you should bias the signals and not leave them floating if you try to use a cheapo relay board (a couple of 2K2 resistors of 10K will probably work fine)

[xnaron]

That is a great idea. The Proma SD is temporary until I get a better THC. I do already have the ability to switch the step out to the driver on and off with a relay I will change to using that instead. I will order one of those chips and replace the relay with that setup. I have a dedicated 5V meanwell power supply that I will use to tap the voltage. It is attached to a din rail terminal block setup so connection is simple.

[xnaron]

Band saw stand finished to a point I can use it. I cut some 1/4" wall square tube for legs. I made the cuts at an angle so they would extend outward and provide a more solid base. My welding is crappy but it passed a hammer test and the best part about it is that it is on the bottom so I don't have to look at it.

[Rodw]

Looks great. A few years ago I had a similar table cut for my 6x4 bandsaw and its amazing. After I wore out the bandsaw it even fitted onto the new one! I don't use it very often but its handy when needed.

[xnaron]

Thanks @Rodw

[xnaron]

Im running the proma sd aswell found that i had to use a dual pole relay to switch it on and off quick enough to be usable.
By using a dual pole on the z inputs i can turn it between the controler and the proma super quick. It now responds well.

I also recomend raw voltage. I had no luck with divided infact it solved alot of issues going raw

I missed this reply. As for the 50:1 on the proma sd the secret is the set the calibration to 170. This is done by holding down the up and down buttons within the first few seconds on power up. This will bring you to the cal menu where you can set it to 170. I am able to use the hypertherm book settings for voltage which has taken out a lot of the guesswork for me and the need to run test cuts.

[Zukzilla]

The 170 is a close number but its not exactly correct. We dialed it in spot on and got a value of 151.
Heres how to do it perfectly.

Okay so you need to open up the case to access the raw voltage output terminals. You then need to start a cut and use a multimeter to read the voltage over the terminals.
This will then give you a number that you want to match to the promas number. You do this by changing the cal setting.

You also need to dial this in in raw voltage but please note its just a number, the only reason to dial it in is so you can quickly look up the voltage in the hypertherm cut charts.
Over time if you hadnt tuned it you would just end up with a new set of numbers.

[xnaron]

The 170 is a close number but its not exactly correct. We dialed it in spot on and got a value of 151.
Heres how to do it perfectly.

Okay so you need to open up the case to access the raw voltage output terminals. You then need to start a cut and use a multimeter to read the voltage over the terminals.
This will then give you a number that you want to match to the promas number. You do this by changing the cal setting.

You also need to dial this in in raw voltage but please note its just a number, the only reason to dial it in is so you can quickly look up the voltage in the hypertherm cut charts.
Over time if you hadnt tuned it you would just end up with a new set of numbers.

Great info. Is your 151 number with raw or divided voltage? Also which hypertherm do you have? I have the pmax 65.

[Zukzilla]

151 was the divided.
Raw is 100ish.
Pmax85

[xnaron]

@zukzilla

I did a cut test on 11 gauge with finecut at 45amp using 170 and 151 on the proma. The pictures are marked as such. It felt like it took less time and effort to clean up the bottom dross on the 151 cut. The dross on the exterior perimeter was easy to pick off with a fingernail on both. The edge quality was similar on both.

I realize the only way I will get an accurate calibration is to put a meter on the raw voltage and get a cal setting on the proma to match.

This part is a 3030 extrusion corner bracket for a 3d printer I am designing.

[Zukzilla]

You running a 65 amp machine. What you want to do to get as close as you can is get as thick of a peice of steel you can get.

Then use feeler gauges to set your z at 1.5mm.

Unplug your z driver power and turn on your relay so you can see the promas read out.

Set your jog feed at the hypertherm book setting, then edge start and cut the peice. You will see a pretty stable reading on the proma. Note this reading against the hypertherm book setting.
If its right then happy days if its high or low adjust 1 or 2 on the cal setting till it reads correctly

[xnaron]

You running a 65 amp machine. What you want to do to get as close as you can is get as thick of a peice of steel you can get.

Then use feeler gauges to set your z at 1.5mm.

Unplug your z driver power and turn on your relay so you can see the promas read out.

Set your jog feed at the hypertherm book setting, then edge start and cut the peice. You will see a pretty stable reading on the proma. Note this reading against the hypertherm book setting.
If its right then happy days if its high or low adjust 1 or 2 on the cal setting till it reads correctly

Thank you @Zukzilla.

I had some time to do the test today. I used a piece of 1/2" mild steel. Book setting for 65 amp shielded is 30ipm at 132V. I set the machine up for an edge start with jog speed set to 30ipm. I had the Proma SD CAL setting set to 150. I watched the voltage and it stayed at 129V for the length of the cut. That puts 3V under my 132V target. In this scenario do you remember if you increase or decrease the CAL setting?


Here are the pictures of the consumables and the underside of the cut.

[xnaron]

Also the other thing I noticed is that even though I am at the correct cut height it is cutting at an angle. According to hypertherm this is caused by a worn nozzle (mine is pictured it looks ok to me but I will compare it to a new one), inadequate ameperage (I am using book settings and cut height) or excessive speed (again book settings). Pictured is the "good side" for cut direction.

https://www.hypertherm.com/en-US/suppor ... l%20angles.