Cutmaster 101 question

[dgd]

Hello, I have a Cutmaster 101 hooked up to a Torchmate 2 table and am having a problem with the arc. (Works fine until it just doesn't and then I can't get an arc for anything, but come back the next day and fire everything up and it works fine again...until it doesn't) I've checked/replaced the consumables, start cartridge, air, pressure, ground, etc., but want to for sure rule out that it isn't the plasma cutter. I understand you can run a jump between pins 3 and 4, but I'm not sure where these pins are and am hoping someone could tell me exactly what I should do. Thanks in advance for your help!

[weldguy]

Is that one of the older units with the all black metal case? If it is I am unsure if it has any diagnostic codes but the newer ones do. Let us know

[dgd]

Yes, it is older and does have an all black metal case. That would make sense if it doesn't have any diagnostic codes. I've been watching for any indication so I could look it up, but it gives me nothing.

[dgd]

I should add that my table has a machine torch. Does that make a difference in diagnosing if it's the plasma cutter?

[ben de lappe]

My setup was TM3 finished machine, TD Cutmaster 101 with SL 100 machine torch. Black case as described. Used for several years and NEVER seen any code displayed from the unit. If it has codes I'm not aware of it however I'm no Cutmaster master by any stretch of the imagination. Racking my brain over your issue. I also experienced intermittent failures but pinned mine down. My shop was large, old school gym. Seemed certain time of the year everything in the shop would sweat as the temp changed. Al equipment and concrete floors being cooler than ambient temperature would form water droplets on everything. I mean soaked. One such morning fired up the table and heard a distinct "Pop" of electricity as if something arced. Obviously things not right shut down immediately until dry and thankfully didn't fry anything. While I highly doubt this is your issue something to look out for. Hope you find resolution soon.

[dgd]

Thank you Ben, I appreciate the input. This setup has been a work horse for me. When I need it it's there and if it has given me trouble I've always been able to run down the problem (though it's never been bad), but this one really has me stumped. Not that I'm any master of these things either, I think I've been fortunate up to this point I use it mostly for art, and not daily, but I've got a very patient customer waiting for signs right now so hopefully I can get it resolved soon. I enjoyed looking at your facebook page. Your drawings are fantastic! The Western Auto building is awesome! The drawing aspect is one of my favorites too, the possibilities are endless.

[Rodw]

I've got an A120 with SL100 torch and I'm a bit like Ben. I have no idea much either. Does it have a filter at the back of the unit? is it blocked?
Pins 3 & 4 refer to to the CNC port and normally there would be a relay in your controller attached to these pins which replaces the switch on a hand torch. So if you jumper these pins, the torch should fire. If it does, then it could be a faulty relay in the controller.

And yes, $3k later I have solved my water in the air problem! They do not like wet air!

[ben de lappe]

Thank you Ben, I appreciate the input. This setup has been a work horse for me. When I need it it's there and if it has given me trouble I've always been able to run down the problem (though it's never been bad), but this one really has me stumped. Not that I'm any master of these things either, I think I've been fortunate up to this point I use it mostly for art, and not daily, but I've got a very patient customer waiting for signs right now so hopefully I can get it resolved soon. I enjoyed looking at your facebook page. Your drawings are fantastic! The Western Auto building is awesome! The drawing aspect is one of my favorites too, the possibilities are endless.

Most welcome, though I'd feel better about the situation if I were able to actually help and I do hope you get it resolved soon. Thank you for the compliments. Been in fab 30+ years and have always enjoyed working with my hands, seemed to come naturally to me. Drawing in cad...not so much. But for me purchasing a cnc plasma more than a decade ago I never would have seen a cad program. And boy was it ugly there for a while. But am I ever glad I did it. As now without shop or equipment about the only way I can express myself is through the files I design.

And to Rodw. Read through your build thread. The lengths you go to and the knowledge you posses is astounding in my book. One of the best aspects of this forum to me is the wide range of experience available and on tap.

Y'all have a great one!

[dgd]

I've got an A120 with SL100 torch and I'm a bit like Ben. I have no idea much either. Does it have a filter at the back of the unit? is it blocked?
Pins 3 & 4 refer to to the CNC port and normally there would be a relay in your controller attached to these pins which replaces the switch on a hand torch. So if you jumper these pins, the torch should fire. If it does, then it could be a faulty relay in the controller.

And yes, $3k later I have solved my water in the air problem! They do not like wet air!

Yes, it does have a filter on the back. I've taken it apart a couple times as much as I can see to do and it's not blocked, actually there's never been anything in there. When you say CNC port and controller you lose me. This is what I really need to learn. My table was built by the previous owner so I know basics and to operate it, but not all the important details. This is what I see when I open my TD. If I understand, the top two blue wires coming in on the left are 3 & 4. Would you point me in the direction of the port and controller?

IMG_3397.jpg

IMG_3186.JPG

Just for good measure, this is what I see on the other side:

IMG_3188.JPG

[weldguy]

I found that the start cartridge on those were finicky. The start cartridge has a spring loaded plunger in the center and there is a taper cut into the plunger where it makes contact with the nozzle. This tapered portion of the plunger will become pitted from arcing and will often stick to the the nozzle when the air pressure should be forcing the plunger up. This will cause a misfire and happened a lot to me. If you take a scotch brite pad and smooth out and clean the taper on that plunger it may help, or replace the start cartridge. Maybe this will help you.

[dgd]

I found that the start cartridge on those were finicky. The start cartridge has a spring loaded plunger in the center and there is a taper cut into the plunger where it makes contact with the nozzle. This tapered portion of the plunger will become pitted from arcing and will often stick to the the nozzle when the air pressure should be forcing the plunger up. This will cause a misfire and happened a lot to me. If you take a scotch brite pad and smooth out and clean the taper on that plunger it may help, or replace the start cartridge. Maybe this will help you.

I too was hoping it was the start cartridge and that was one of the first things I tried. I've owned the table several years now and had not replaced the start cartridge. Inspecting it, it still seemed fine, but I went ahead and replaced it hoping that would make the difference, but unfortunately, it didn't. Curious, has anyone ever had a "bad" brand new start cartridge?

[weldguy]

I've had new cartridges start to stick very quickly, the dirtier and more humid the air the faster this seems to happen. Scotch brite pad to clean the tapered mating surface has always worked for me if the cartridge was the problem. Good luck.