Thermal Dynamics 60i

[rollernose]

I recently purchased a Thermal Dynamics 60i. I used a Hyper Therm 380 for the last 12 years with no problems and was totally happy. My little HT 380 finally gave up,(circuit Board burned up). I was convinced by a welding salesman that the TD 60i was the best value going...And it was a good price and more machine than I had been using. I hand cut 10-16 gauge material, for the steel sculptures I make. I'm having a problem with the new machine. There is a noticeable lag from when I pull the trigger until the arc initiates. It doesn't seem like a big deal until you go to cut 75 small trees or fish from a sheet. I have to make probably 200 stop starts, by the time I'm through waiting for that damn things delay that many times I'm ready to throw it through the wall. Tech support says thats the way the machine is designed, salesman says they all do that. Anyone have some insight? My old unit was not inverter technology, it started right up, EVERY TIME! I HATE this new machine!!!!

[Brand X]

Thermal always had a pre-flow kind of deal going , Start cartridge seems to make it even worse. Little better with the valve in torch model. SL100-SV..(Automation torch)Probably should of bought a Hypertherm 45XP if you wanted a much more instant start. So what they are telling you is half correct..Not all machines work like the Victor.. Maybe turn the machine on the expanded metal mode, and see if it helps improve the restqrt time lag a bit. Probably won't help much, but sounds like you have very few other options to try..

I would kind of like to have 60i along with my 45XP.. I have all the stuff to turn it into a decent cnc machine..

[rollernose]

I couldn't resist the price for the 60i. I met with the salesman and the local rep today.They conceded that the delay existed; but the store is balking a bit on my request for a refund. I have maybe 20 minutes cutting on it and loath the thing already. If I end up eating it, and having to keep it until I can afford another machine, I will never do business with that particular shop again. Even the TD rep told the salesman he should just refund the purchase price and resell it. I should never have traded in my broken Hypertherm 380.It was going to cost over half the price of a new machine to repair it and they gave me 270$ off the new machine. The 60i ended up being $1389.00
I tried multiple amp settings, expanded setting, and different lengths on the lead setting, all with the same result. The thing cuts nice, it's just the starts are killing me. I like the ability to drag a standard tip below 40 amps. I free hand draw all my artwork and it makes following the lines easier. Do you have to use the drag shield with the hypertherm? I always pulled my tip along the work piece with my old HT 380; it worked great.

[jimcolt]

All Hypertherms Powermax units are designed for drag cutting. The newer Powermax30XP has a shielded set of consumables that can drag, also has a Finecut set of consumables That provide a narrower kerf and can drag, but have a bit shorter life than the drag parts. It sounds like you need more power....so I would suggest looking at the Powermax45XP. Jim Colt Hypertherm

[rollernose]

Thanks, Jim
I was able to return the Thermal Dynamics unit. I bought the 45XP; I Really wanted to spend 5 minutes cutting with a demo unit before i made the purchase, but the store said they don't do that...I have a concern that it may be difficult to see around the shield while trying to follow lines. I used an extended tip and electrode with the Power Max 380, I could easily see the lines as I pulled it along the material. I haven't been able to get a crystal clear answer about contacting a tip to the work piece without the drag shield. Some say it might work, some say I will simply arc out and stick. I don't want to ruin my machine, but if it works and only reduces the consumable life I might be ok with the added cost to make more accurate cuts. I considered buying the 30xp but was told it doesn't have as many tip options. And the tips for the 30 torch don't stick out as far as the 45 does. I'm really kicking myself for not having the 380 fixed....It was expensive to fix, with no guarantee, so I'm probably better off. I guess my age is showing; CHANGE IS BAD!!!
Thanks for any advise and input!
ROLLER

[jimcolt]

You can drag the nozzle using the deflector (instead of the drag shield), just expect shorter nozzle life when doing so. Turn it down to 30 amps and it will cut like the Powermax380, use the Finecut unshielded and it will cut better than the 380. I strongly suggest using the 45 amp shielded parts and trying to get used to their geometry.....they will last dramatically longer and will cut faster and cleaner. Jim Colt