Stuck consumable

[bearmetaldesigns]

Hypertherm 85 ,filter , dryer , 100psi . I'm try to cut with 45amp finecut. I keep losing the cut do to a 30 code that says that the consumable is stuck. I have replaced everything from tip to swirl ring many times . It will cut good for about 5mins then start throwing that code. I keep getting swirl groves in the electrode. Its just blowing my mind. So any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[urbnsr]

Until the ones who know the answer come along, I can say that I get these error codes. For me, I wonder if it's related, directly or indirectly, to room temperature. If so, I wonder if the warmer room temperature and moisture have something to so with the error. I think I only received one of these error's this Winter (in the midwest), but today is warmer and I received two in one job. Same thing happened last year: Winter is good, summer, it happened many times. I just restart a line before the error and I don't loose anything. Mine always happen attempting a pierce. Maybe that is the only time the error can happen as that's the only time the tips moves... I may know more after installing a refrigerated air dryer.

One thing I do now is to make sure I did not screw the tip on too tight. Just finger tight. Can't say much about the swirl. I assume that isn't necessarily bad, but my tip is fairly black, so it would be hard to see. Those tips last a long! time.

Paul

[bearmetaldesigns]

I have a dyer , cooler. It happens both at piercing and long runs. I can't seem to get through larger pieces because so many codes. I've had low air flow coded before that I couldn't explain.but never this. It frustrating.

[urbnsr]

I imagine the next thing someone may wonder is if the consumables are actually Hypertherm brand. My understanding is the off-brand can be made to look very convincing and price may be the only indication. If they were really inexpensive (relative), they could be fake. I don't know that I have had a code 30 along a cut - Only during a pierce. I have had a few unexplainable code 20 during a cut, though. At least I don't know why.

[motoguy]

I've also had a few unexplained code 30 during pierce attempts. I usually disassemble the torch tip, inspect, blow it out, and reassemble. Sometimes I'll get a code 11 at this point, sometimes not. No visible reason for it. Dry, clean air, sufficient air PSI at PM85, etc.

[acourtjester]

I have electrodes with deep swirl patterns etched in them and have never seen any of those codes.

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[acourtjester]

Have you checked the "O" ring on the torch and the retaining cap?

[bearmetaldesigns]

All new everything. Will try to play with it so more today. Had to walk way before I smashed it.

[comeoutswingin]

For what its worth I get them consistently with my PM85, doesn't really matter what consumables.

[jimcolt]

The stuck consumables code indicates that the electrode is not sliding fully inside the swirl ring. With no airflow....the electrode is spring loaded against the nozzle....effectively shorting the positive and negative power supply output.....when you fire the torch...air pressure rises inside the plenum between nozzle and electrode and pushes the electrode rearward, creating a short circuit arc that ionizes the air in the torch...starting the plasma jet. The swirl marks on all plasma electrodes are normal.....though if the end of the electrode gets completely discolored it generally means you have excess oil or water in your air.

The common things that cause the 0-30 error code:

1. Low incoming air pressure under flowing conditions. Everyone.....absolutely everyone insists this is not a problem.......but if you do not have a pressure gauge installed (hard plumbed) right at the air inlet to your plasma cutter.....and record the reading under static conditions (no air flow at the torch) then again while air is flowing at the torch....then you really do not have a clue what the "flowing" (dynamic) inlet pressure is. You need to check this when the compressor is at the "bottom" of its on/off cycle. Note: if you are relying on the pressure gauge reading back at your compressor.....don't. You will see the one at the plasma running somewhere between 5 to 20 psi (when air is flowing to the torch) lower than the one at the compressor......this due to restrictions in the air line (hose diameter and length, number of fittings, filters. traps, valves, etc.) This will be intermittent depending on when your plasma fires in relation to the cycling of the compressor.

2. Worn out, defective, or aftermarket swirl ring. The swirl ring controls the air flow....acts as an electrical insulator, and acts as a slide bearing. It is precisely manufactured from Dupont Vespel which is good as an insulator, a bearing, and has good high temp characteristics. They wear out...and the aftermarket (cost less) ones are junk. When this part is incorrect you will get error codes and bad cut edge angularity.

3. Overtightened retaining cap....not so much of an issue with the newer Duramax torch.....but if you have an older Hypertherm, make sure you are just snugging the cap....vs "reefing" the cap on!

4. Aftermarket electrode and nozzles. I just ordered some on both Amazon and Ebay. I won't even begin to tell you all the tings that are manufactured from the wrong materials, and to the wrong dimensions. My 6 year old Powermax85 rarely has shown a code.....it did often when I tried these parts. The parts are in the hands of our IP (intellectual property) department now.....and since they are covered under international patents the sellers will be tracked down. You'll save a few bucks when you buy these, spend a lot more when you use them.

5. Plugged, clogged, damaged onboard filter or flow control regulator. Tech service at Hypertherm can help you diagnose internal issues....these will cause similar symptoms to #1 above.

6. Worn out or aftermarket retaining cap. The cap helps to split the air flow between the shield flow and the nozzle (plasma) flow. Over time they can be damaged or the flow passages can be obstructed.

7. I'm going to mention this again.....if you have a screw compressor or a piston compressor that is worn....it could be injecting some oil in your air line. This will severely discolor the electrode and cause an 0-30 code.....clean the nozzle / electrode with scotch brite and they will work again....for a while. Oil is a far worse culprit than water inside the torch.

Hope this provides a little insight. #1 is the (by far) most common 0-30 fault code culprit. For best results the Powermax 65, 85 and 105 need no less than 90 psi, no more than 135 psi at the inlet under air flowing (at the torch conditions).....It is best if regulated to stay at a solid 100 to 110 psi. Here is the gauge setup that I use....about $10 worth of hardware store parts: Jim Colt Hypertherm

powermaxpressuregauge 002.JPG

powermaxpressuregauge 001.JPG

[Phil@rvc]

Jim Colt is right
Of course
I have had some issues with that as well and the problem is usually the said worn swirl ring

[motoguy]

Fighting these codes right now. What causes wear to the swirl ring? Are there any steps that can be done to minimize the wear (aside from clean, dry, oil-free air)?

[jimcolt]

The electrode slides up and down inside the swirl ring......the swirl ring acts as a slide bearing, and insulator (between the negative electrode and positive nozzle) and a gas swirl and flow control (hence the name swirl ring). The more cut on/off cycles the more the swirl ring bearing surface wears. Typically when it wears too much the gas flow in the torch is altered and the electrode does not fully slide, causing the error code. Typically the swirl ring will last for 50 or more electrode changes....so its real cost per foot of cut is less than 1/10th of a penny. Change it when you get this code if you have exhausted the other issues that I have suggested in my previous post on this thread. Jim Colt Hypertherm

PS. Hypertherm consumables are the lowest price on the market if you consider the cost per foot of cut. They cost more than other brands to buy, last many times longer, and cost less than other brands to use as a result of their life.

[michmetalman]

I tried after market consumables ONCE and that was enough...JUNK!! Make sure you use only Hypotherm.

[little blue choo]

I LOVE the new Copper Plus consumables. Haven't had to change one yet but after looking at them I think I'm going to get very long life out of them.

Rick

[motoguy]

I LOVE the new Copper Plus consumables. Haven't had to change one yet but after looking at them I think I'm going to get very long life out of them.

Rick

I love them. They last a long time. Be warned, though...once you can start to see the crater recessing into the copper, they go FAST.

[motoguy]

I LOVE the new Copper Plus consumables. Haven't had to change one yet but after looking at them I think I'm going to get very long life out of them.

Rick

I love them. They last a long time. Be warned, though...once you can start to see the crater recessing into the copper, they go FAST. The crater depth doesn't get nearly as deep as it does with the standard electrode before you start spitting green flame.