patinas and rust

[blackandtan]

How are you guys that live in humid states keeping rust from forming on the edges and creeping under the clear?

[little blue choo]

You paint the edges of course!

Rick

[abmetal]

Easier said than done.

Allen

[little blue choo]

Allen I use automotive clear and spray with a HVLP type gun and have no problem getting the edges covered good. I hang my pieces, spray a little around the edges and then spray the rear and front. Have a lot of pieces outside for years with no problems.

Rick

[blackandtan]

I paint the back concentrating on the edges and then clear the front and back and that is done as soon as they are dried after doing the patinas and still get occasional rust creeping in and it always starts from the edge.

[jawslandshark]

A decent medium solid clear coat is what you want shot out of a HVlP gun with 1.3 mm tip. I use a Sharpe/Graco 3000 and run the air at 50 inlet psi with a large fan adjustment. Coat the back with one good coat and let it flash making sure you have full coverage, let it dry awhile then use something as a standoff in the middle of the piece to paint the front, then run a light coat on the front, flash, them run a medium to thick coat and it will smooth out over the edges and leave a beautiful finish. I usually let it dry overnight before handling.

[little blue choo]

I use a high solids, fast dry, 90 minute quick cure clear. It's a lower priced clear distributed by Carolina Auto Supply, PRO-4500. It's only $79.95 for a gallon plus a quart of activator. At a 4:1 ratio I will get over a 100 pieces out of a gallon. I wouldn't use it on one of my auto restorations but it works great for plasma art.

Rick

[jawslandshark]

Rick, do you reduce it at all or ever get any solvent popping with the quick cure on a heavy coat? I usually reduce the medium solids 10% and have been using Matrix, I have been getting that in gallons for about $70.00.

[little blue choo]

I do not reduce it at all. I usually spay a light coat and allow it to flash over, only about maybe 5 minutes then apply a medium to heavy coat and have never had any popping. If I want a very heavy coat I will lay my parts down to paint but normally just hang them from my paint rack.

Rick

[blackandtan]

I usually use Nason clear on the front and back basically the same way that Jaws is saying. I tried hanging them to paint but I got tired of chasing them in circles to spray them

[jawslandshark]

I have tried lots of clears, the MS-52 by Matrix is pretty forgiving. I am not sure why the rust would form on your edges other than maybe the clear is having a hard time staying on the edge and thinning out? I actually get a pretty decent edge coat and the only thing I can think of is that with a lighter base coat and letting it set up it is giving the final heavy coat something to grab ahold off. The thinning of the clear, 10 to 15% (urathane reducer) I can really fan this stuff on, no pattern really at all just fog the crap out of it. I never have any orange peel and it dries smooth as glass. I have personally never shot the Nason, but I am sure it is just as good. I may try some high solids just to see what the differnce is.