Emergency stop reset

[whiskeymike]

Hey, I read through the threads here, and learned somethings to try, but I have more questions. I was cutting today and in the middle of the 30th or so cut out of 200, the torch stopped midcut. Tried to stop and rewindreset, but I get an emergency stop signal reset does nothing.

I went into pins config and changed the stop from X to check, and the estop went away.

I'm running a Starlab Bulltear table with CAndCNC kit, DTHC IV. To my knowledge, there is no emergency stop. Can the x, y, z home switch provide this signal? are they wired in to the same circuit? Anything else that might provide this stop? Can the motors do this? I restarted everything and I hear the click of the motors and there's no budging the x or y, I didn't try the z.

Any suggestions on how to test the switches and wires? I assume the switches are typically closed and when depressed they open the circuit? So I should test for no resistance?

Thanks, Mike

[acourtjester]

If you go to the diagnostic page in Mach you can see what is causing the fault. Do you have the feather touch option on you table?
Most of the limits and home switch are wired for NO and if a wire breaks that will stop the table with a fault. If your checking with a meter you want to see zero ohms (short circuit) for a complete circuit. If not you have a switch that is not working or a broken wire.
none of the boxes in the input status should be lit. The external hold is lit because the reset light was on.
Until you can reset the fault you will not be able to move the motors.

limits.jpg

[acourtjester]

You can go into ports & pins inputs and un-ckeck the enable for all the limit and home positions to see it they are causing the problem.
for the E stop you will need to remove the port selection and put a 0 in there you cannot un-check the enable for it.

inputs.JPG

[little blue choo]

Acourtjester to the rescue again. On day I'm hope to know 1/10 of what he knows.

Rick

[exapprentice]

Do you still have the CP led illuminated?
I had a similar problem and I lost the CP led power and nothing would happen.
Ended up having to change the UBOB card.

[BTA Plasma]

I think you mean NC, you have it backwards Acourtjester. NO is normally open and you can have a dead short the system will never realize it. NC is normally closed and the switch makes a NO when its depressed. The Active low is toggled for NC operation. You can use the toggle (red X or green check) active low to find a short. If Estop doesn't come out of reset on either option for the active low on estop there may be another problem.

It could be many issues. Sometimes when you install a wireless network for dropbox sharing the windows defender will turn itself on. The green Ethernet cable may also be bad from walking over it leading up to an electronics issue or drive issue. One question for Mike is if he presses the green button to energize the drives does the green light stay on or is there a red blinking light?

On the Star Lab machines with Mach the Estop is also wired into the Z axis limit (top and bottom limit) to prevent overjogging while not running a program. So he has to check that switch as well.

[acourtjester]

correct NC switch wiring old fart type "O"

[whiskeymike]

Acourt, I do have the feather touch ohmic sensing setup.

Exapprentice, The power light is on the UBOB, but the CP light is not. Not sure what that signifies.

IMG_3394 copy.jpg

BTA, Pressing the green button sends it into green, no red blinking light.

[BTA Plasma]

CP light will not come on until mach sees the control box and it is out of reset. You can try using a different Ethernet cable and also have you made any changes to the PC lately? It may be a bad Ethernet cable.

[BTA Plasma]

correct NC switch wiring old fart type "O"

Absolutely no problemo It happens even to the best of us

[acourtjester]

I have a different CandCNC electronics package (MP3100 parallel port )

[exapprentice]

Hi whiskeymike and all

hope all is well with everyone.

I always thought that if you do not have a CP light then nothing would function
I thought Mach used this signal to check the system and if no CP then no go

When I had the problem with the UBOB (no illuminated CP LED) if I toggled the CP between active low or active Hi
(cant remember now which way - thats and age thing - I think )
I could get the CP to illuminate but the wrong way (whichever that was ) maybe someone else can confirm it

or this could be a red herring completely, hey things are a bit slow at the moment

[whiskeymike]

I'll change out the ethernet cable. I assume the green one is important for this case. I'll also change the pin low and see if the light comes on then after being able to reset. Thanks guys

[whiskeymike]

Swapped out green Ethernet cable, no luck.

I checked the diagnostics screen, no lights on the axis locations.

Went into pin and ports, turned estop to green check mark. Able to reset. CP light comes on. Able to jog machine around fine in all directions, no issues. Turn estop back to red X and estop comes on, unable to reset.

Started looking at switch wires. Switches themselves seem completely enclosed, don't see a way to test them without getting to the other end of the wires. They all feed into lid of box. Do I need to open lid and check continuity inside the box?

Anyway to narrow it down?

What's next?

[BTA Plasma]

IS the Z axis limit switch clicked? Taking Estop out of active low means you either have the z limit reached or your little purple cable is unplugged a little on the Ohmic sensor.

[exapprentice]

Hi everyone
You have exactly the same symptoms I had when the UBOB lost its 5v output which powers the CP circuit.
It's not the solution to change the settings and you will find that there is nothing wrong with your switches.
Go over to the CandCNC site and look up my post " lost CP and limits" Tom suggested some tests to check things out

link to thread = http://candcnc.com/supportforum/viewtop ... =19&t=1211

Good luck and keep us updated

[BTA Plasma]

If he is able to reset it is not a CP problem. The switch for the Z axis (if installed and working) needs to be reset or the feather touch module (which may have estop wired through the circuit and has a jumper for estop on it) may need to be looked at.

[whiskeymike]

IS the Z axis limit switch clicked? Taking Estop out of active low means you either have the z limit reached or your little purple cable is unplugged a little on the Ohmic sensor.

I'm not sure what you mean by clicked. The switch has an arm that is mounted vertically, nothing is touching it. I can depress the arm and it clicks and I can let it go and it will return to it's original position. I've moved the Z all the way up and all the way down, and there's no difference in the position that it's in.

[BTA Plasma]

Well Mike you can try just using active low to run out your parts and check to see if the jumper is disconnected on the feather touch at your leisure. Something got disconnected. If it is not the Z switch then its the feather touch OR the jumper on the Estop pins on the table I/O card.

[exapprentice]

Hi Mike

How are things going
Have you made any progress, might be a total red hearing and nothing like your problem at all
But
it makes good reading and is always useful to log it into the memory bank for future use
have a read of this thread from the CandCNC site, http://candcnc.com/supportforum/viewtop ... f=3&t=1289

might be of use or not, just trying to help

[whiskeymike]

Thanks Exa, I'm doing alright. Made some progress tonight, but still haven't found the culprit.

Here's an image of the feather touch oohmic box. Jumper in place, wires look seated to me. I pulled out the wires going to the green plug, reseated and tightened down. Pulled out the red plug, and pushed in each wire to make sure it was seated well. No luck. Jumper looks fine. I pushed it in to make sure it was seated well.

image.jpeg

I then went around to the three home switches, and when I depressed each one, the indicator light went on in the diagnostic screen. I would assume that means those switches are ok. I would also assume the wires are ok. If they weren't wouldn't the light not signal?

I then gave up, switched the active low to a green check mark, and then cut 20 pieces. The oohmic sensor worked fine as well as all the motors. So everything else seemed to work fine.

I'm stumped and not sure what I'm missing. I wish there was someone in Austin with a CandCNC machine that I could learn from.

One of these days, I'm going to take some solid time to understand all of the circuits and how these connections work together. For the most part, I'm shooting in the dark.