I'm getting ready to order some of Bill's dyes and I want an airbrush to apply them and found the NEO series starts @ $60.
Would these work with Steel F/X dyes?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iwata-N4500-Neo ... 2c791d26fc
Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
- modelaratrod
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Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
5x10 Torchmate 2 w/AVHC
Hypertherm PM85 w/ machine & hand torch.
Hypertherm PM85 w/ machine & hand torch.
- modelaratrod
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Re: Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
It works great!
5x10 Torchmate 2 w/AVHC
Hypertherm PM85 w/ machine & hand torch.
Hypertherm PM85 w/ machine & hand torch.
- Capstone
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Re: Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
I recently stepped up with airbrushing and the dyes. I'm kinda disappointed to be honest. I was expecting this awesome iridescent colored metal results, instead I got a chalky film with very little "pop" of shine from the metal. I'd love to see some pictures of your results and the mix ratios, if any, to see where I'm doing things wrong.
Phil
It's all relative...
CNC Metal Design
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JD Squared 4x8
HT PM45, Miller 251 MIG
It's all relative...
CNC Metal Design
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HT PM45, Miller 251 MIG
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Re: Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
Phil,
Was that "chalky film" before it was clearcoated? Because the colors really pop AFTER it's cleared.
Allen
Was that "chalky film" before it was clearcoated? Because the colors really pop AFTER it's cleared.
Allen
- Capstone
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Re: Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
Yes, and I admit I probably didn't do enough sampling before going back to other finishes.abmetal wrote:Phil,
Was that "chalky film" before it was clearcoated? Because the colors really pop AFTER it's cleared.
Allen
Using the airbrush itself is enough to keep me frustrated, so adding in the element of surprise with how much dye to apply with mixed results was when I ditched it.
I'll try some more experimenting.
Phil
It's all relative...
CNC Metal Design
Instagram CNC Metal Design
JD Squared 4x8
HT PM45, Miller 251 MIG
It's all relative...
CNC Metal Design
Instagram CNC Metal Design
JD Squared 4x8
HT PM45, Miller 251 MIG
-
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Re: Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
I don't dilute the dyes, just use them straight. And when I'm airbrushing, it is hard to tell just how much dye I'm putting on...just a guessing game, but practice will make it easier. But the clearcoat is a MUST!
Allen
Allen
- steelfx
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Re: Iwata NEO Series Airbrush
There are no 'mix-ratios' with the Dyes or Stains (Alcohol Inks). They're ready-to-use, right out of the bottle. I do blend all of them at about 25% above industry standards, so they can be diluted up to 25% & still yield beautiful, rich colors. Dyes are diluted with Acetone and the Stains are diluted with 99.5% Isopropanol. But, you don't need to. Quite possibly, as is true with most all of us humans, we tend to over-think things we haven't had much experience with & that sometimes can be our reason for disappointment.Capstone wrote:I recently stepped up with airbrushing and the dyes. I'm kinda disappointed to be honest. I was expecting this awesome iridescent colored metal results, instead I got a chalky film with very little "pop" of shine from the metal. I'd love to see some pictures of your results and the mix ratios, if any, to see where I'm doing things wrong.
Both products are translucent, so the level of prep & shine given to your particular substrate will not be hidden.
And, as Allen has mentioned, a 2-Part High-Gloss Clear-Coat will make the colors *POP* like you wouldn't believe!
The photo below is a quickie collage of a few pieces I made recently, using the Polymer Gel & the Stains, commonly called Alcohol Inks.
The colors are not chalky at all once the top-coat, in this case: 2-Part Epoxy Resin, is applied.
Iridescence (Metal Flake) can be added to your top-coat, but is not recommended for airbrushing, as it tends to plug the tip. I have it in Gold, Copper, Bronze & Silver. Tip: Mix Silver & Gold Iridescent Powder together 1:1 & shake softly or stir. Result is a really nice Platinum Color.
Thanks!
Bill
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