Pricing, Gathering needed items & discussing my 1st table build

[N2 Welding]

Part of the Amazon order arrived today

[N2 Welding]

I'm a sucker for black Friday deals. HD had the Dewalt 20v heat gun for $99.

That'll come in handy for heat shrink tubing when making all the electrical connections.

[SegoMan DeSigns]

Waiting on your review of the blow nozzle, the HF cheapo's are now rated to 90 psi and normally leak (esp at 125-150 psi)

[N2 Welding]

I have not even hooked it up yet. I can tell you this. Right out of the package I was a little concerned. The trigger pull is not a smooth motion, feels like something is grinding or galling just a bit. I'll let you know once I use it a couple of times what I really think of it perhaps it just needs a drop of oil and be used a couple times to brake it in.

[N2 Welding]

Waiting on your review of the blow nozzle, the HF cheapo's are now rated to 90 psi and normally leak (esp at 125-150 psi)

Just for you

[SegoMan DeSigns]

Thanks from the guy at P-Spider! What was your manifold pressure?

[N2 Welding]

Full tank psi. Think it caps off at 150

[acourtjester]

That sounds like more of a volume then pressure regulator, I am surprised OSHA has let that be sold in the US.
From their ad
Ergonomic handle, soft grip with solid aluminum frame
Control the air flow by turning the flow control knob conveniently located above the handle

[N2 Welding]

That sounds like more of a volume then pressure regulator, I am surprised OSHA has let that be sold in the US.
From their ad
Ergonomic handle, soft grip with solid aluminum frame
Control the air flow by turning the flow control knob conveniently located above the handle

Is it possible this one is defective?

[acourtjester]

It looks like it is working as shown from your video. The knob rotates through off to full output, input pressure is controller by air regulator in the compressor supply line. IMHO

blow gun air.JPG

[N2 Welding]

That valve rotates infinitely and does not stop the air flow. It just goes from low to high with no fine tuning in between :/

[N2 Welding]

The Derale Trans oil cooler just arrived

[N2 Welding]

Brainstorming the after cooler shroud and not sure about the best solution to maxing the cooling efficiency of it.

The circular air cooling opening on the back of the compressor shroud is 11.5" in diameter and the Derale 15300 is about ,10"x10.5" just for the cooling fins but then there are the tubes that loop back and forth from one rad to the other continuosly 16 times. If I include the half circle tubes inside of the shroud then the measurements are 13" x 10" more of a rectangle. This would allow more air through the shroud but less volumetric pressure through the cooling fins on the Derale cooler as air would escape past the fins if allowed to go by the looping tubes on the outside of the rads.

I think forcing more air through just the coolin fins on the rads would produce better cooling efficiency but at what cost. Will it push too much heat towards the air pump cooling fins on the air compressor cylinder jugs???

Now I have to make up my mind.

On one hand better heat transfer from the rads equates to more heat being directed towards the air pump cylinders while a bigger shroud will allow more air to pass through keeping the pump some what cooler.

Perhaps I should do some cardboard or 1/8" board testing. $hit I just want to get it done but if I'm going to be using this a lot for media blasting and plasma cutting then I want to have the most efficient set up possible.

The X accross the center square depicts the cooling fins area of the cooler and the two rectangles on the outside of the bare looped tubes depicts how much bigger the shroud will have to be to include them into the equation. Hope that all makes sense.

[N2 Welding]

Air compressor shroud next to the Derale cooler for size comparrison.

[N2 Welding]

Pulled the outside cover off of the compressor shround to get a better idea on some measurements for what I'll do for the air cooler shroud to compressor shroud. The cooler is sitting pretty much in the center of the 11.5" circle opening to the compressor shroud opening.

[N2 Welding]

Made a little progress marking up some scrap metal from a garden tractor.

[sonbakler]

Great idea and looking good! Do you plan to put a drain valve on the outlet side of the cooler as well?

[N2 Welding]

Yes probably some type of auto drain coalescing water seperator filter thingiemabob before the air goes either into the tank under the pump or another 60 gallon add on tank so I'll have 120 gallon storage. Still pondering adding the second tank or not. A second tank would most likely add more run time per cycle and potentially shorten the pump life.

[acourtjester]

Have you though about an alternative location of the cooler and a fan just for the cooler, cycle on/off with the compressor?? As to the second tank your choice is more cycling verse longer cycling, seems it would work out about the same life expectation for the compressor. If you use the original shround I would remove the fins to help the air flow.

[N2 Welding]

I don’t want to add to the difficulty and expense of wiring up an electric fan as well as using more power from the utilities company to run the fan.

My goal is to have all the air go through the air cooler with no way for air to be drawn from around the sides. This makes it difficult to come up with a round hole to a square opening designed shroud. I also want to give the cooler a bit of stand off of at least a couple of inches so the shroud will act like a high rise manifold for the intake on a car. That’s the idea anyway lol. We’ll see how it turns out.

Thanks for the commen sense with cycle times and pump life . I was thinking longer run times might produce more heat in the pump and lead to less life.

I had not thought to remove the plastic fins on the compressor shroud. If the design does not move enough air then I might consider opening the compressor shroud by cutting out the cross fins. Those do add strength to that shroud though so I’m a bit hesitant to do that. I’m attempting to mate the two shouds butted up against each other with some kind of weather stripping “yet to be determined” between the two while not making any holes in the plastic compressor shroud :/...

As far as mounting the two shrouds together, the idea is to add brackets to the air cooler shroud that hold it in place and allows it to bolt up to the same locations that the compressor shroud mounts to. EDIT: I looked again snd the compressor shroud will not allow this on the bottom 3 mounting locatioms

There are many little intricate details to think about and fab just for this but it should allow me to keep the compressor and after cooler in one tight mounted together package. Then should I need to move the compressor in the future for any reason it will be less complicated since only one air line that supplies shop air would need to be removed possibly by a quick disconnect coupler.

[djreiswig]

Make a transition.

[N2 Welding]

Thanks for that video dj. I think you might be giving me too much credit but I'll give it a lookie loo later when I finish fkn things up out here in the man cave.

I used the woodward fab to trim the scrapped garden tractor/lawn tractor firewall after realizing doing it by hand with metal skizzers was going to put me on the struggle bus

I laid out my lines, scribed them, thought all was good then just now I realized the lines are rotated off by 90 degrees :/

So I'm taking a beer brake and posting up my booboo and progress to this point. It's coming along. ATM I'm just messing around with the circle base plate. Rrrr I just messed up the scribes but it'll only take me about an hour to fix it lol.

[N2 Welding]

Ok got the miss marked scribe lines corrected and highlighted in yellow to keep on track with where the lines belong.

This is a simple square to to circle type of shroud I'm conjuring up atm. Still want to watch that video though to see if I think I can make it better

[N2 Welding]

Don't ask why but this just popped into my head so I had to play it a couple of times to annoy the neighbord :p



Full version:

[SegoMan DeSigns]

The extended run time on the second tank should not be that adverse to the pump heat (give it a try) the voltage spike require to start the pump motor would be roughly 1/2 of what filling the same tank twice vs 2 tanks once.. Does your AC have a continuous run mode? Earlier you said the tank regulator was set at 150 perhaps the thing to do would be put a regulator in between the tanks and set the 2nd tank to the pressure needed on the plasma unit.