Anycubic Kobra Max

[adbuch]

Tom - I'm not sure what is going on there. The output files from my slicer are normally in .gx format, and I copy them from my computer to printer using a USB thumb drive. Can you copy the file from the Bambu slicer to a thumb drive and then to your printer?

[acourtjester]

Ok after some more working with Bambu I was able to import your file and get the Raspberry connected to it and send the G-code to the printer. The attached images show the finished item from your file. It may print better with some fine tuning of the printer configuration or different filament brand. Here is a YouTube group of tutorials for Bambu if your interested, he shows you can use SVG files to create prints too (last video in the series).
"Bambu Studio 101 | Beginners Guide to Bambu Slicer Software" for some reason I cannot post the URL for the series you should be able to do a search of the title above.

DSCN0585.JPG

DSCN0587.JPG

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5 pins test scaled_step.rar

G-code if you care to try

[adbuch]

Tom - here is the same file with the 5 pins you just printed in STL format. If you could print this one using the same filament and other parameters, then we could compare the two versions to see how the print quality compares.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_zM4di ... sp=sharing

David

[adbuch]

The two printers I am using are the Monoprice MP Voxel (rebranded FlashForge Adventurer 3)

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-133820 ... c63b24bcb5

Review
https://all3dp.com/1/monoprice-mp-voxel ... ter-specs/

and FlashForge Creator 3.

https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-Creat ... B09R3BPW57

Review
https://top3dshop.com/blog/flashforge-c ... -3d-review

Since Bambu Studio does not offer the option to slice for either of these printers, I have been using the stock FlashForge FlashPrint slicer for both printers for this comparison. If you have been following along and read the previous posts, you can see that the print quality from the FlashForge Creator 3 is much better than that of the MP Voxel for these particular parts. I was initially printing using the Hatchbox PLA filament with the FlashForge Creator 3, and FlashForge PLA filament with the MP Voxel.

In an effort to make a better comparison, I switched to the same Hatchbox PLA filament for the MP Voxel so that now both printers are using the same slicer and exactly the same filament. I have printed the same STL files with both printers, and my conclusion is that the difference in print quality is a direct consequence of the difference in mechanical quality/performance between the two printers - as might be expected when comparing a much more expensive printer to an entry level printer.

FF Creator vs MP Voxel 1.jpg

ff creator 3 1.jpg

MP Voxel 1.jpg

FF Creator vs MP Voxel.jpg

ff creator 3.jpg

MP Voxel.jpg

[acourtjester]

Here are the different prints, now after printing them I found some videos that show changes to the slicer that will make a difference for the smoothness of the surface. these are the videos I found.

FHD0010.JPG

[adbuch]

Tom - the one you printed labeled "Bambu STEP" does look smoother than the others. Since you don't say which printer you printed that one from, I'm not sure which other one I should be comparing it to.

[acourtjester]

I printed the 2 on the Vyper so between the STEP and STL, the STEP file printing is smother.
From the 2 videos it looks like making changes to the slicer configurations will result in more smoothing, I have not tried them yet.
It would be interesting if the slicer configurations for your printer had any of those set on the Flash Forge and not on the MP Voxel and that is why there is a difference.

[adbuch]

I printed the 2 on the Vyper so between the STEP and STL, the STEP file printing is smother.
From the 2 videos it looks like making changes to the slicer configurations will result in more smoothing, I have not tried them yet.
It would be interesting if the slicer configurations for your printer had any of those set on the Flash Forge and not on the MP Voxel and that is why there is a difference.

Tom - from what I can see I would conclude that using the STEP file produced a better print result than the STL file using your Vyper printer for this particular part. I wish I had a Bambu compatible printer so I could try this for myself, but as I said my printers are not compatible with the Bambu slicer. For others who do have Bambu compatible printers, this may be something to try to help improve print quality.

I did my last set of prints (as shown in my previous post) using the same FlashForge FlashPrint slicer and settings for both printers. Also the very same Hatchbox pla filament. So same slicer, same settings, same filament, and same STL files. The only variable is the actual printer. As I said previously, my conclusion is that the more expensive (by about 5 times using current pricing) FlashForge Creator 3 Pro is simply a higher quality print mechanism than my entry level MP Voxel.

I purchased the Creator 3 Pro in Sept. 2020 for $3400 brand new from FlashForge, and the current price is $1995 on Amazon. I purchased the MP Voxel also in early 2020 at a cost of around $450 directly from Monoprice. Current price is $379 on Amazon. So prices have really dropped on both, and more so on the Creator 3 Pro.

For the MP Voxel I have experimented with changing the infill density and pattern, shells (top solid layers and perimeter layers), layer height, print resolution (medium and high), extruder temp, and STL resolution (refinement) with no discernible difference in print quality. The very same slicer configuration used for both printers results in perfect prints on the Creator 3 Pro, and very acceptable results on the MP Voxel (with the exception of parts with large flat areas and protrusions such as the pins in our sample parts).

FHD0010.JPG

[acourtjester]

I understand and agree with what you have done and said, one thing with the slicer (like SheetCam) there are different setting for each printer. If when you sliced you used the selection of the FlashForge postprocessor for both printers G-code that is more of a direct comparison. Which I assume you did do for the test. Attached screen shot shows I can select different postprocessor in the slicer for g-codes. My use of the term postprocessor my not be the correct term but relates to my theory.
None of the 3-D printers I have reach the price range you have paid, I know my daughters printer cost here $2400 so I can understand and appreciate price range, I'm just cheap.

comparison.JPG

[sonbakler]

Wow big difference in quality with the Bambu STEP file. Will keep this in mind when I finally pull the trigger on one of these awesome machines. Thanks for the info guys.

[adbuch]

Tom - what you have shown there with your chart I would consider a list of different configurations (configuration files) related to a particular printer. Each configuration would in general relate to the same slicer and printer, but with customized parameters to meet your particular needs. For example, the one with "Ironing" or one related to a specific filament. I'm not sure (and you haven't said) if you are able to use the same slicer post processor for both of your anycubic printers.

With regards to the FlashForge FlashPrint slicer that I used for my examples, the configuration would be the same for each printer - but using a separate post processor to create g-code specific to the target printer controller. Yes - the resultant g-code would be different for each target printer, otherwise the same post processor could be used for both printers.

slicer 1.jpg

slicer 2.jpg

slicer 3.jpg

slicer 4.jpg

So all the slicer settings are basically the same, the only difference it the printer specific post processor used to generate the g-code file.

As another example - I have several different cnc machining centers (mills) from the same manufacturer Matsuura. These both use the Yasnac controller, however the actual controller model and processor is different between the two. So when I draw up the part, create the solid model, and create the tool paths using MasterCam the last step is the post processing. I pick the post processor that is specific to the particular controller I intend to use, and then create the g-code and load it into the controller.

510.jpg

MC 800.jpg

If I machine the same part from the two different machines, and assuming I am using identical tooling and material, the end result will be the same regardless of which particular post processor was used - as long as the post processor for the specific controller is used to generate the g-code.

With regard to the FlashPrint slicer generated g-code - the screen shot below shows the g-code file for each printer. You can see that the g-code file for the Creator 3 is about 50% larger than the corresponding g-code file for the MP Voxel. All settings are the same, so this has more to do with the specific requirements of the Creator 3 vs. the MP Voxel. I haven't studied in detail the inner workings of these printer controllers, so I really couldn't tell you why the g-code is different.

slicer 5.jpg

[acourtjester]

Your write up shows following the path from drawing to finished part can go different ways due to the electronics in the controller. Like the difference between a Win PC and a Mac, they both can produce a printed document. But the internal function of the processor and the firmware are completely different. Attached is an image of your 2 g-codes and just the speed difference shows with the same drawing and setting the 2 printers handle them differently.

speed check.JPG

Here is a change I made to the printer's setting and an image of the difference in the finished printing. The Ironing process did improve the surface finish, but there is a lot on interferences by the pin shaping. Another thing you can look at in the slicer is the preview after the G-code is generated.
You can move through the layers and look to see if there is a difference before printing. Here are some images for the 5 pin file with the different setting. And there is a big difference in the print time, and hour more with the Ironing and with changes.

changes made.JPG

DSCN0592.JPG

con 1 layeer 24.JPG

con 2 layer 25.JPG

con 3 layer 26.JPG

standard 1 layer 26.JPG

standard 2 layer 25.JPG

standard 3 layer 24.JPG

[adbuch]

Tom - you make a good point about looking at the individual layers for defects. This process was described in one of the Youtube videos you referenced previously. I have looked at the individual layers for the blue part you printed using several different slicers and see no evidence of any defects in the top layer which would equate to the deformed areas adjacent to the pins as show in some of the previous photos. My conclusion is that this is more a problem with specific printers which produce the unwanted result.

[acourtjester]

You could be right, also there could be different setting that could be made in the configuration. I am just poking at the Bear and not going about it in a scientific method. There are guys on YouTube who print a large number of parts making all kinds of changes to find the sweet spot for their printer.
The problems seen in the 5 pin print are not nice but I have printed many parts I an happy with that are of different shapes, like the container above.

[adbuch]

You could be right, also there could be different setting that could be made in the configuration. I am just poking at the Bear and not going about it in a scientific method. There are guys on YouTube who print a large number of parts making all kinds of changes to find the sweet spot for their printer.
The problems seen in the 5 pin print are not nice but I have printed many parts I an happy with that are of different shapes, like the container above.

At any rate, we've had lots of fun messing around with this one. Lots of great discussion!!

[acourtjester]

Yes Sir

[adbuch]

None of the 3-D printers I have reach the price range you have paid, I know my daughters printer cost here $2400 so I can understand and appreciate price range, I'm just cheap.
comparison.JPG

Tom - I'm just curious - what particular make and model 3D printer did your daughter purchase? I have seen some of these new ones that are specifically for multi-color prints - like some of the Bambu printers. What sorts of things does she print?
Thanks,
David

[acourtjester]

She bought a Lulzbot very similar to this one but about 4 years ago. It used 3 MM filament I think most have gone from that size now.
https://www.dynamism.com/lulzbot/lulzbo ... gIa_PD_BwE

[adbuch]

Tom - I checked that one out and did read some positive reviews. You daughter must be printing some pretty large parts to require that capacity. I did note that her printer uses the more uncommon 3 mm filament, which is said to do faster prints, but at the expense of "fine details" in the print due to the larger nozzle size. Both of my printers use the more common 1.75 mm filament size. What sorts of things does she print?

[acourtjester]

It hard to say what is a common thing she prints, as she is remote to us. One funny thing was a group was printing a life size either head or bust like item. And had asked the web for people to print sections that would be put together when they all sent them in. She printed 2 sections that I think took 24 hours each. I never did find out what the finished item was or did it get completed, I will ask.

[acourtjester]

David this is the project she was involved with and provided 2 of the many parts needed for the completed project. It was a world wide project with people for all over printing and sending in their parts. When requested she was given 2 STL files and where to send the after printing, don't know which parts she did. One puzzle for them to put together .
https://www.jenschachter.com/we-the-rosies

[adbuch]

Thanks Tom! Lots of large parts - so having a printer with the larger filament and faster print times would be a huge advantage for her.

[acourtjester]

Yes she has enjoyed that printer and bought it because of that being one of its features. It also had Auto bed leveling and direct drive for the filament. These have been incorporated into many of the cheaper printers by now. I did some mods to both my printers for the direct drive and some other things posted on the web. The 3 MM filament I think has gone away for most now.

[adbuch]

Tom- Looks like she is having lots of fun! The auto bed leveling is nice, as well as the direct drive at the hot end. My larger printer has both, while my smaller one has the drive before the bowden tube. I have experienced no feeding problems, clogs, etc. with either printer. Buying a kit and modifying as you have done can be lots of fun and a good way to learn more about the "inner workings" of the 3D printer. I took the "short cut" approach and purchased both of mine as "turn-key" units.

I did buy one of the small cnc router/engraver kits a while back and it was great fun to put together. I think it cost around $200 or so. It came with Arduino control, but I converted it to Centroid Acorn control so I could do some testing before installing the Centroid Acorn control on one of my larger cnc routers. It was a great project and lots of fun as well.

[acourtjester]

experimenting while learning or building opens the doors to more and more things and can be fun along the way.
I like to tell people let your mind wonder, great things can be found and enjoyed, many problems have the solved like that.
Not to mention some busted knuckles.