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[adbuch]

Creative25 - thanks for your help with understanding how to use your program to create flat patterns for tube notches. I'm not sure if I can edit the file to work with inches instead of metric. But- it is easy enough to convert back and forth between inches and mm (1 inch = 25.4 mm).

I will create a folder with some screen shots showing step-by-step how to download the macro code and use it with your file to create these flat patterns. I will put the screen shots in Google Photos, and the program and macro code in Google Drive and share the download links for others who may want us it.

I'll post the links here after I get them done.

Thanks,
David

[adbuch]

Here is the folder with the FreeCad Notching Template and associated Macro.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

And here are the screen shots showing step-by-step how to install and use this software program.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RAeT6r5zb3YjrYmT7

David

[Creative25]

This dimension is the actual length of the shape it is a dimension just for viewing.
So with 300 mm length you get 282 mm length of the pipe at the given angle. Now I can add the difference and the actual length will be 300 mm
So then you can delete the two horizontal lines and I have two cutting lines one for the shape and the second for cutting the pipe off at the length you want.

[adbuch]

This dimension is the actual length of the shape it is a dimension just for viewing.
So with 300 mm length you get 282 mm length of the pipe at the given angle. Now I can add the difference and the actual length will be 300 mm
So then you can delete the two horizontal lines and I have two cutting lines one for the shape and the second for cutting the pipe off at the length you want.

Thanks for the update! I have just edited my previous post to include both the file download folder and the screen shot folder showing step-by-step how to install and use the Notching Template. Please take a look and let me know what you think.

Thanks,
David

[adbuch]

This dimension is the actual length of the shape it is a dimension just for viewing.
So with 300 mm length you get 282 mm length of the pipe at the given angle. Now I can add the difference and the actual length will be 300 mm
So then you can delete the two horizontal lines and I have two cutting lines one for the shape and the second for cutting the pipe off at the length you want.

OK - now I understand. Thanks for the explanation.

David

ok.jpg

ok 1.jpg

[Creative25]

You can add whatever dimensions you want to see, with the dimensions tool on top it looks like a vernier.

For inches you can just add the measurements in inches and it will convert to mm.

IMG_0595.jpeg

IMG_0596.jpeg

[adbuch]

first part.jpg

[Creative25]

That’s how I do most things for plasmacuttin.
I use pad chamfer fillet and pocket functions mostly.
Also the array function.
If you want to export you go to the view you want.

Then you go to the draft workshop and press part to shape.
The you can export it to dxf or whatever.
Simply press Ctr E

If you don’t convert to shape then you get double lines
And sheetcam doesn’t know what to do.


Sometimes I just find it easier to design in 3D

IMG_0598.jpeg

Now you have 2 d shape you can export

IMG_0599.jpeg

[Creative25]

I checked your photos it’s a good tutorial.

[Creative25]

Here is an image of the chain on my DIY table similar to Segoman's. My path for 2 side drive has a shaft going through the upper rail tube.
DSCN2177.JPG

I have been looking at your machine.
I see your y axis runs on ball bearings and it looks like you have some cam nuts. How much offset from the center of the nut? And how much do you recommend?

I want to improve my x and y axis.

[acourtjester]

Here is a video showing the procedure I used to create the offset bearing studs. I use a 3/4" hex rod and round stock as the base bearing studs, with a 1/8" offset ( I think). This gives a good amount of adjustments in the bearing travel. I used 6001RS2 bearings with rubber seals to protect from dust. and 1/4" 28 threads for their bolts, great gripping action.

3 types of bearing studs (1).JPG

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9mnR5F ... rtjester90
My axis slider assemblies I use them on both X and Y rails, they may be switched orientation from yours.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L4J44m ... sp=sharing

[SegoMan DeSigns]

I took a different approach on my bearings as I do not have a lathe. I used a 6201 bearing and a Wheel Stud (M12-1.5 x 42.1MM) part # 610-360. I chucked up a lug nut in my drill press for that thread size / pitch screwed in a stud and filled the serrations down to where it was a slight press fit inside of the bearing. The top hole above the rail is round for a non-movement of the weight carrying bearings, the under rails are a slotted hole for adjustment. The trick to the slots is make them long enough you can get a pry tool in there to preload prior to tightening.

Roller Bearings.jpg

[adbuch]

If you don’t convert to shape then you get double lines
And sheetcam doesn’t know what to do.

Creative25 - I figured out how to do it your way with the Draft Workshop and Press Part to Shape tools. I exported as dxf and it imports to SheetCam fine with a single cut path.

I also tried the method I showed in my screen shots where after running the macro, I simply selected the template surface and exported as dxf. That method works fine with SheetCam as well.

So I did not experience any of the double lines you were talking about.

David

notching template to sheetcam 1.jpg

notching template to sheetcam 2.jpg

notching template to sheetcam 3.jpg

[adbuch]

Here is a video showing the procedure I used to create the offset bearing studs. I use a 3/4" hex rod and round stock as the base bearing studs, with a 1/8" offset ( I think). This gives a good amount of adjustments in the bearing travel. I used 6001RS2 bearings with rubber seals to protect from dust. and 1/4" 28 threads for their bolts, great gripping action.
3 types of bearing studs (1).JPG

Tom - those are some great videos you made! That's a nice looking lathe you have there in your shop, and very clever using the hex stock to make your eccentrics.

David

[adbuch]

I took a different approach on my bearings as I do not have a lathe. I used a 6201 bearing and a Wheel Stud (M12-1.5 x 42.1MM) part # 610-360. I chucked up a lug nut in my drill press for that thread size / pitch screwed in a stud and filled the serrations down to where it was a slight press fit inside of the bearing. The top hole above the rail is round for a non-movement of the weight carrying bearings, the under rails are a slotted hole for adjustment. The trick to the slots is make them long enough you can get a pry tool in there to preload prior to tightening.


Roller Bearings.jpg

Steve - I like your approach with the wheel studs as well. Those finished bearing/adjusters look very substantial.

David

[Creative25]

If you don’t convert to shape then you get double lines
And sheetcam doesn’t know what to do.

Creative25 - I figured out how to do it your way with the Draft Workshop and Press Part to Shape tools. I exported as dxf and it imports to SheetCam fine with a single cut path.

I also tried the method I showed in my screen shots where after running the macro, I simply selected the template surface and exported as dxf. That method works fine with SheetCam as well.

So I did not experience any of the double lines you were talking about.

David

notching template to sheetcam 1.jpg
notching template to sheetcam 2.jpg
notching template to sheetcam 3.jpg

Hi David looks like a misunderstanding
I was talking about your first 3 D drawing you posted. Part to shape is only for needed for converting 3 d drawing.

The python script unwraps and converts into 2d already.
You can export shape files directly.
You can also export sketches directly.

There is one exception where part to shape is useful for 2 D

If your shape for example unwraps into the XZ axis. Then you can quickly create a new shape that is in the XY axis.

Click on the shape change to the view you want and then do a part to shape. You have a new shape in the Xy axis.

[Creative25]

I took a different approach on my bearings as I do not have a lathe. I used a 6201 bearing and a Wheel Stud (M12-1.5 x 42.1MM) part # 610-360. I chucked up a lug nut in my drill press for that thread size / pitch screwed in a stud and filled the serrations down to where it was a slight press fit inside of the bearing. The top hole above the rail is round for a non-movement of the weight carrying bearings, the under rails are a slotted hole for adjustment. The trick to the slots is make them long enough you can get a pry tool in there to preload prior to tightening.


Roller Bearings.jpg

At the moment I have exactly the same setup as yours except the slots. And instead of wheel studs I have normal M12 bolts.
My setup has too much preload on one of the y axis and causes vibrations.
I will redesign the sliders and have one extra bearing.
It will have some fixed holes some slots and some larger holes for cam nuts.


I did not have a plasma cutter. But I guess I even could have made slots with a file.

I have a small lathe and working on a lathe was part of my profession so for me to make an eccentric is easy.
But I appreciate your input for those who don’t have a lathe.

[adbuch]

If you don’t convert to shape then you get double lines
And sheetcam doesn’t know what to do.

Creative25 - I figured out how to do it your way with the Draft Workshop and Press Part to Shape tools. I exported as dxf and it imports to SheetCam fine with a single cut path.

I also tried the method I showed in my screen shots where after running the macro, I simply selected the template surface and exported as dxf. That method works fine with SheetCam as well.

So I did not experience any of the double lines you were talking about.

David

notching template to sheetcam 1.jpg
notching template to sheetcam 2.jpg
notching template to sheetcam 3.jpg

Hi David looks like a misunderstanding
I was talking about your first 3 D drawing you posted. Part to shape is only for needed for converting 3 d drawing.

The python script unwraps and converts into 2d already.
You can export shape files directly.
You can also export sketches directly.

There is one exception where part to shape is useful for 2 D

If your shape for example unwraps into the XZ axis. Then you can quickly create a new shape that is in the XY axis.

Click on the shape change to the view you want and then do a part to shape. You have a new shape in the Xy axis.

Hi Ueli - thanks for clearing that up. I am having some fun learning about FreeCad and trying it out for a few things. Since I am used to using Fusion 360 - I look for similar tools in FreeCad to try and follow the same workflow I use with Fusion 360. I would be interested to see how you create your two pipes at different angles that you are using for your unwrap process. In Fusion 360, I would draw one circle and extrude, then create an offset plane at an angle to use for the second sketch for the other pipe.

David

[Creative25]

I have actually found the simplest way only now.
The best way is to use as few rotations as possible.
The first pipe I create from a sketch in the XZ plane and is extruded in a positive direction in the y direction.
If I do it this way it unwraps nicely into the XY plane.
This is just to adapt to the way the python script is unwrapping. The second extractive body is from a sketch in the xy plane in the center of xy. The second I extrude symmetrically so if I rotate it then the other pipe remains in the center of the pipe.

For rotation I do not manipulate the pad only the sketch. For length of pipe I change pad thickness.

[Creative25]

IMG_0600.jpeg

Manipulating a sketch can be done in the data window.
For rotation I go to placement and click expand the under axis I choose the axis around which I want to rotate around.
Default is z but now I want y so I put z to 0 and y to one.
Then I put in the angle and the whole pad rotates.
In this sketch angle is marked blue because it is linked to the spreadsheet.

[adbuch]

Thanks - I will have a look at this later today.
David

[SegoMan DeSigns]

I took a different approach on my bearings as I do not have a lathe. I used a 6201 bearing and a Wheel Stud (M12-1.5 x 42.1MM) part # 610-360. I chucked up a lug nut in my drill press for that thread size / pitch screwed in a stud and filled the serrations down to where it was a slight press fit inside of the bearing. The top hole above the rail is round for a non-movement of the weight carrying bearings, the under rails are a slotted hole for adjustment. The trick to the slots is make them long enough you can get a pry tool in there to preload prior to tightening.


Roller Bearings.jpg

Steve - I like your approach with the wheel studs as well. Those finished bearing/adjusters look very substantial.

David

David,

That's the great thing about this forum, you can see how people are doing things with what they have on hand. I spaced my rails out with 1/2" aluminum spacers so I was limited as to what I could put on the back side of the bearing. A couple of jam nuts and SAE washers to space as needed for the application.

A few clicks up you mentioned the conversion of metric to US, I have this unit converter on my screen ready for use at anytime, no internet connection needed once installed:

https://windows10gadgets.pro/othergadge ... #gsc.tab=0

Steve

[acourtjester]

I use one called convert has many different types to choose from.

convert program.JPG

convert.zip

[SegoMan DeSigns]

Tom.

If it would only convert pocket change to gold

[acourtjester]