baleigh g-code speed rate adjustment between holes

[Jason Pittman]

I have an older version of that table with a brand new A120. Are you piercing at 60 amps? I'm cutting 5/8 now at 100 and I am not happy with the cut.
Thanks
Jason

[adbuch]

Jason - welcome aboard! The A120 mechanized cut charts suggest using an edge start for 5/8" steel at 60 amps. Perhaps post some photos of your cuts for suggestions.
David
60 amp chart

t120 cut chart 2.jpg

80 amp chart

t120 cut chart 80 amp.jpg

100 amp chart

t120 cut chart 100 amp.jpg

[arnegrant]

I have an older version of that table with a brand new A120. Are you piercing at 60 amps? I'm cutting 5/8 now at 100 and I am not happy with the cut.
Thanks
Jason

The A120 charts don't work right with my single phase power.

It was hard for me to understand when I started but lower power makes better cuts and uses less consumables.

FOR 5/8 MILD STEEL MATERIAL CUTS:

I start with the 60 amp charts with 60 Amp consumables and the A120 turned to 80 amps with the air turned up just so the light turns red (air regulated but wide open) for the holes given above. I pierce with this setup successfully using .2 seconds longer pierce time then the 80 amp table and I leave the cut height at the same as the pierce height (for this material)

For smaller cut lengths I use the manual torch height control, if I am cutting more than 2' cut lengths I use the auto. Note the crawl feature in the Fang Ling control manual can vary the pierce from the cut height (the control system is very complete, the baleigh manual does not cover everything it does) The pierce and the cut height are .01 inches different for 5/8 so I don't mess with that option on 5/8

When I don't need a small hole to come out as good and want to make some faster cuts I use the 80 amp tables with 80 amp consumables and the A120 turned to 100 amps and the air rwgulated wide open as noted above

I leave a .35 margin between parts in 5/8 when possible and try for a .25 inch lead in and lead out.

I try not to use the machine at 120 amps for production cutting as it is hard on consumables. The cups are expensive and I run another machine while the table cuts a sheet, and if you don't catch the whistle at 120 amps you can stick the start cartridge in the cup and burn up consumables.

The A120 and the Baleigh table with Fangling controller cuts very nicely. There is a welder at my shop with his own table at home and he stays late at work to use ours for home projects as the cut quality is that much better with this machine.

When showing other employees how to run I stress that the tables cut heights are in distances but the control module puts in time (you need to figure the speed of the torch up / down motor and then adjust). There are a bunch of methods to do this but basically cut the power using manual torch height control and use a feeler gage to see where you are.

I do adjust the speed of the table to get less dross but do not go so fast that the torch will lose the pierce.

If everything is clicking properly the dross is less than the size of a mechnical pencil lead and comes off with a paint scraper with a tap.

Make sure to cut the holes first and then cut the "weak" sides of the plate first with the last cut made separating the piece from the main body of the remaining part (if you put the last cut on a skeleton drop side the pieces will shift and make the part uneven)

This is the full manual for the fang ling controller

http://www.flcnc.com/page1000094?_l=en& ... =130&brd=1

Otherwise, the regular suspects - good consumables and very dry air, double check your torch is square, the right side of the torch is the right side to cut with (clockwise outside cuts counterclockwise inside cuts)

Also make sure you've adjusted your A120 voltage output circuit board to match the Fang ling controller. The volts with manual torch height control will basically match the volts in the table if that is set right) Some toggles on a board inside the A120 need to be set properly. See your A120 manual.

Good luck