My 4 x 8 Build

[TJS]

Nice build. I agree with you in regards to your water pan. I did mine like yours and it warped where I had to spot weld studs on the underside of the pan and make sort of a "U" bracket that went around my cross-members. This allowed me to pull the warp out of the pan. If I were to do it and I still might; is get stainless sheet bent up for my needs and just weld the corners.

[SRdesign]

I meant the Last Part. When the whole Thing moves, does it wobble sideways or is it stiff?

No it doesn’t move, it’s nice and rigid. I was worried about that during assembly because my gantry side plates are somewhat tall, but there are also 6 - 5/16 x 4” bolts bolting each gantry plate to the extruded aluminum. I drew a pattern with a lot of back to back diagonal 1” lines in both the x and y direction, then half circles. Basically a bunch of sharp movements and arcs. Then I ran it at 220ipm with the drag bit attached to my torch. There was no wobble or anything like that and all of my diagonal lines were exactly 1” with sharp corners. I was very pleased with the outcome. I think the diamond scribe bit is the way to go if you want to check accuracy of your table because you are removing the torch from the equation and you can see exact movements scribed into your metal.

[SRdesign]

Nice build. I agree with you in regards to your water pan. I did mine like yours and it warped where I had to spot weld studs on the underside of the pan and make sort of a "U" bracket that went around my cross-members. This allowed me to pull the warp out of the pan. If I were to do it and I still might; is get stainless sheet bent up for my needs and just weld the corners.

Thank you. Yes if this water pan ever gets replaced it will be 100% sheet metal. To get most of the warp out of mine, I cut off the end of a cheap harbor freight clamp, tacked it to the underside of my water pan where the cross brace was, then clamped the pan to the cross brace, then tacked the pan to the cross brace in several spots. I would then cut the weld off of the clamp and start again in another spot. It was a pain in the butt.

[Retro]

I meant the Last Part. When the whole Thing moves, does it wobble sideways or is it stiff?

No it doesn’t move, it’s nice and rigid. I was worried about that during assembly because my gantry side plates are somewhat tall, but there are also 6 - 5/16 x 4” bolts bolting each gantry plate to the extruded aluminum. I drew a pattern with a lot of back to back diagonal 1” lines in both the x and y direction, then half circles. Basically a bunch of sharp movements and arcs. Then I ran it at 220ipm with the drag bit attached to my torch. There was no wobble or anything like that and all of my diagonal lines were exactly 1” with sharp corners. I was very pleased with the outcome. I think the diamond scribe bit is the way to go if you want to check accuracy of your table because you are removing the torch from the equation and you can see exact movements scribed into your metal.

And the two Linearblocks per Rail are enough? I'm building mine as a Masterpiece and don't want to build scap. So im asking these questions.

[SRdesign]

Yes it is enough. The majority of commercially available tables that use linear rail have 2 blocks on each side of the gantry. If you’re wondering what size I used, they are hiwin HGH25 rails and HGH25CAZAC blocks. The gantry is HGH20 rails and HGH20CAZAC blocks. I am very happy with the hiwin rail and block. I’ve never used any linear rail before so I can’t speak to any other brand or style, but these are solid.

[Retro]

I wanted to go With 20mm Rails by THK from Japan. I got many Rails for a ridiculos price last year.