Hey guys I believe it was JimColt who gave me some pointers on cutting 14ga. Well 1 of those pointers was using welding anti-splatter on the underside of the piece you are cutting. I finally have my machine dialed in on 11ga with some anti-splatter sprayed on the bottom to where there is very little to basically no dross on the bottom except pierce points.
Now my question is, what is the best solution to remove the spray!?! If I want to powdercoat or paint these things I can't imagine it sticks to the spray? Now I will say I haven't messed with it much other than hitting the pierce points with a quick scotchbrite pad on the 90* grinder, and a quick wipe with a rag to see if it came off. But do you guys blast it then, or does something cut it good enough to spray over?
Welding Anti-Splatter
- AnotherDano
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Re: Welding Anti-Splatter
My stuff is all powder coated and I've been following the PC forums.
The process I follow is to clean the piece with acetone. It leaves some smears on really dirty pieces, so I keep at it until it's really clean.
Step 2 is using a wire cup brush in an angle grinder, either a straight wire or a twisted wire, depending on the piece.
Step 3 is a belt sander using 40-50 grit. This levels any stubborn dross-bumps and gives the piece a lot of 'tooth' for powder (or paint) adhesion. It also returns that crisp edge to the cuts that the wire brush may have rounded over.
Step 4 is a heavy spray with denatured alcohol. I use the 'break test', holding the piece so that it reflects light and spraying until the alcohol run in sheets from the piece with no breaking.
Just before coating, a propane torch is used to burn and blow off any 'fuzzies' that may remain and cause fish eye. A quick pass will do the job.
After Step 3;
The process I follow is to clean the piece with acetone. It leaves some smears on really dirty pieces, so I keep at it until it's really clean.
Step 2 is using a wire cup brush in an angle grinder, either a straight wire or a twisted wire, depending on the piece.
Step 3 is a belt sander using 40-50 grit. This levels any stubborn dross-bumps and gives the piece a lot of 'tooth' for powder (or paint) adhesion. It also returns that crisp edge to the cuts that the wire brush may have rounded over.
Step 4 is a heavy spray with denatured alcohol. I use the 'break test', holding the piece so that it reflects light and spraying until the alcohol run in sheets from the piece with no breaking.
Just before coating, a propane torch is used to burn and blow off any 'fuzzies' that may remain and cause fish eye. A quick pass will do the job.
After Step 3;
Last edited by AnotherDano on Sun Feb 13, 2011 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dano Roberts
droberts@ironpequod.com
PlasmaCam DHC-2 v3.11
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droberts@ironpequod.com
PlasmaCam DHC-2 v3.11
Hypertherm PowerMax-30
Serving Laramie, Wy since Thursday
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Re: Welding Anti-Splatter
I have used a metal degreaser for all of my work. I will get the name of it and post on monday. Most of my steel comes
with an oily film on it ,especiall the tubing. This stuff works great with little effort involved. I use the anti spatter from Airgas and the can says it is compatible with paint,but I still like to see the rinse water "sheet" on the steel rather than bead up.This lets me know there is no oil residue on it. I also use only cold rolled sheets for my cutting, mill scale is tough to
remove and tends to flake off later.
with an oily film on it ,especiall the tubing. This stuff works great with little effort involved. I use the anti spatter from Airgas and the can says it is compatible with paint,but I still like to see the rinse water "sheet" on the steel rather than bead up.This lets me know there is no oil residue on it. I also use only cold rolled sheets for my cutting, mill scale is tough to
remove and tends to flake off later.
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Re: Welding Anti-Splatter
why the denatured alcohol?
There is plenty of room at the top - and the top is where you want to be. Whenever you do a project - do the hardest part first and the rest will be easy.
- AnotherDano
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Re: Welding Anti-Splatter
It eliminates any remaining water and also takes care of oily fingerprints.anvilhead wrote:why the denatured alcohol?
Put on some vinyl gloves and spray. Fingerprints will not be noticeable until it's too late.
Dano Roberts
droberts@ironpequod.com
PlasmaCam DHC-2 v3.11
Hypertherm PowerMax-30
Serving Laramie, Wy since Thursday
droberts@ironpequod.com
PlasmaCam DHC-2 v3.11
Hypertherm PowerMax-30
Serving Laramie, Wy since Thursday
- Streetwerkz
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Re: Welding Anti-Splatter
I also spray my torch tip with anti splatter, helps keep it clean.
don't know if it helps extend consumable life or not, but on the whole it helps the torch head stay cleaner
don't know if it helps extend consumable life or not, but on the whole it helps the torch head stay cleaner
Joshua Robinson
www.Streetwerkz.com
www.Streetwerkz.com