Getting bevel when cutting 14g ?

[Oggjay]

Hello, Trying to cut 14g with a power-max 45. All setting are exactly whats in the book and all new consumables are installed. Yet my cuts are v shaped.
Its cutting clean and virtually no dross or splatter.
I've tried lowering the amp and lowering the cut height yet no change. Thanks for the help.
Possible air issue ?

[abmagrum]

I think you want to raise the amps or lower the cut speed .

angle cut means not enough power or cutting too fast

[Oggjay]

I think you want to raise the amps or lower the cut speed .

angle cut means not enough power or cutting too fast

I've tried turning the amps all the way up and tried dropping the speed down below 200..

Nothing changes..

[SeanP]

I am going through the same to be honest with the Powermax 45.

1/4'' seems to be the best, can get nearly square cuts on that.
1/8'' gets to about 7? or so
1/16'' is 10-12? angle at best

I have tried all sorts but just cant seem to find a way to improved it, you would have thought the thinner material would have been easier.

Maybe trying the 30amp consumables might help on the thinner stuff?

Sean

[muzza]

Not familiar with DHC2, only used DHC1 up until about 2 years ago, I now run Mach. My PM45 gives perfect cuts at near book specs on 14 gauge.
Have you done a physical check on cut height?, as in stopped the machine and physically measured with feeler gauge or drill bit to make sure your cut height is correct.
Also are you earthing to the sheet and not relying on carrying the earth through the table?
Sorry basic questions but often overlooked.
Murray

[jimcolt]

The plasma is an air plasma from Hypertherm. There is always a bevel...although you can control the bevel to a minimum by running at the correct height, using the lowest power consumables that will cut the material, and operating at the "best cut speed" as listed in the operators manual from Hypertherm. The best bevel edge on 14 gauge will be in the 4 to 7 degree range typically.


Of course you can do much better with a High Definition plasma...however they are considerably more expensive!

First pict is edge angualrity with a Powermax45 on 1/4" steel, typical. Second is on 14 gauge steel, typical.

Jim Colt Hypertherm

Powermax45 edge angle 002.jpg (31.68 KiB) Viewed 3484 times

Powermax45 edge angle 002.jpg (31.68 KiB) Viewed 3484 times

[Oggjay]

Here is the best I can get. Cutting exactly by the book. 14g. As you can see the -V- shape of the cut in the first photo. On the second picture you can see that I can barely cut all the way through.. I got something wrong.. Just cannot figure it out.. Like I stated before all new consumables and air pressure to the back of the machine is at 110psi. Only drops to about 95 psi on cutting. Could I possibly not getting enough air flow (cfm).. Running a big craftsman 80gal.. But running through 50ft of 3/8".. and then water / oil separator..

[beefy]

There's one thing that's always confused me about this bevel. The flame is supposed to be slim at the start (nozzle) then fattens out then comes thin again at the end.

Some literature I've read reckoned that when the torch is too high, you'll get bevel just like what you have. Yet if it's too low the bevel will end up completely opposite. That theory matches what the shape of the flame is supposed to be like.

I'd love to know why the torch can't simply be put at a lower point until you get zero bevel. Maybe the literature I've read is completely wrong.

Might even try sometime to see what the effect is running the tip half a mm above the surface.

[weldor2005]

Could I possibly not getting enough air flow (cfm).. Running a big craftsman 80gal.. But running through 50ft of 3/8".. and then water / oil separator..

Could be a possibility, Not sure how to check that other than watch the panel on the front of the cutter and see if its air pressure gauge LED's go low while cutting.

I am running just fine on a 60 Gal. Sanbourn. It goes through about 50' of 3/4" before the air dryer that it probably dont need thanks to good plumbing, and then a filter. I never had a problem with my air, therefore I never Tee'd in a gauge at the back of the machine. I have 110psi / 135 psi max, out of the compressor and then regulate to 100 psi about 3-4' (Distance off of wall) from the back of the PM45.

[jimcolt]

The bevel in the picture indicates that either the torch is way too high off the material, or that there is a serious air flow restriction.

1. Ensure that you are using the mechanized shield, not the drag shield on the Powermax45. With the drag shield the correct torch to work distance is dragging on the material...if you raise it to .060" off the plate it then is too high. The machine shield is designed for use with a .060" standoff.

2. Don't go by arc volatge if you have a height control, rather, adjust the voltage during the cut until the height (with correct shield) is .060".

3. If you inlet air pressure is dropping a lot from static to dynamic (no flow to flow at the nozzle) then you have too much restriction in your plumbing system.

4. Install a gauge right at the inlet, turn on the air flow to the torch (turn amperage knob fully counter clockwise), set the correct front panel flow using the LED's, and ensure that the inlet pressure stays above 90 psi..... If you don't have a gauge at the inlet, you are not reading the proper inlet pressure. Often the flow restriction is caused by your filters, moisture traps.


Air plasma systems can not cut without taper. The cut angularity gets better as you cut thicker, worse on thinner materials. There is a good side bad side to the cut.....if the torch is moving directly away from you the right side has better angularity than the left, due to the design of the consumable parts.

If you get close enough to the plate to get the squarest possible cut...you will drag on the plate!

Jim Colt Hypertherm

There's one thing that's always confused me about this bevel. The flame is supposed to be slim at the start (nozzle) then fattens out then comes thin again at the end.

Some literature I've read reckoned that when the torch is too high, you'll get bevel just like what you have. Yet if it's too low the bevel will end up completely opposite. That theory matches what the shape of the flame is supposed to be like.

I'd love to know why the torch can't simply be put at a lower point until you get zero bevel. Maybe the literature I've read is completely wrong.

Might even try sometime to see what the effect is running the tip half a mm above the surface.

[Oggjay]

Thanks for your input Jim.. I have measured the cut height with feeler gauges and its correct.. I have a gauge on the inlet port to my cutter... But like I've stated before pressure reads right yet the lights on the front of the machine stay on the bottom yellow.. Starting to suspect the machine..

[weldor2005]

Thanks for your input Jim.. I have measured the cut height with feeler gauges and its correct.. I have a gauge on the inlet port to my cutter... But like I've stated before pressure reads right yet the lights on the front of the machine stay on the bottom yellow.. Starting to suspect the machine..

So to clarify, you tried reading inlet pressure with the amperage knob turned full CCW? This is a switch that opens the air solenoid so you can see what inlet PSI you have with the draw on flow rate.

Similar to adjusting gas regulators on a oxy fuel set up. Crack the fuel and adjust, then the oxy and adjust.

[jimcolt]

And...to add to that, when the air ois flowing you must adjust the regulator on your Powermax45 (knob on the top rear) until the pressure LED's are satisfied (single green LED). Make sure the mode selector on the front panel is in the cut mode before doing this. If you cannot get the single green LED on the front panel to stay on under flow condistions...then you have a restriction that is not allowing adequate air flow...and that alone will cause your v shaped cut.

Jim Colt

[Oggjay]

And...to add to that, when the air ois flowing you must adjust the regulator on your Powermax45 (knob on the top rear) until the pressure LED's are satisfied (single green LED). Make sure the mode selector on the front panel is in the cut mode before doing this. If you cannot get the single green LED on the front panel to stay on under flow condistions...then you have a restriction that is not allowing adequate air flow...and that alone will cause your v shaped cut.

Jim Colt

OK.. Wow.. Knob on top of machine.. Talk about a newbie..I'm the knob.. OK everything is working perfect now..
I guess it does help to read the directions sometimes..

Thanks everyone for putting up with me...lol..

Jay

[SeanP]

Thanks everyone for putting up with me...lol..

Jay

Not at all, some good info came from that, thanks Jim!
I'm probably not that far away really then, that circular 14s'g sample looks mighty

[jimcolt]

I know how we all like to run the equipment first...and misplace th operators manuals. The Hypertherm Powermax systems have extremely good, detailed manuals with excellent descriptions and illustrations. Every day I get questions about cut quality, part numbers, how to tell when the consumables are won....etc. I refer to the operators manual for the answers and often copy pages right out of the manual in my online replies.

The air inlet and secondary (cutting) air pressures are covered in the Hypertherm manuals in detail. Put that manual in the reading room and read it over time, you'll be amazed at how much better the plasma works!

Best regards, Jim Colt