consumables life span

[aeromoto]

Hi Guys. I'm new to the site, and this is my first post. At my shop, we cut inserts out of 3/4" steel plate. Last week we got a Tracker set up and started cutting these inserts on it. They are about 45" long, and about 15" wide, so I don't want to scrap any if I can help it. So here is what I'm wondering: how much cut time should I run before I swap out the tip, the electrode, etc. I'd like to get some use out of these components, but still swap them out before they cause any issues with the cut. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Thermal Dynamics 150 cutter, SL100 torch, 100 amps, 18" per minute, .19 inch torch height. Thanks...

[aeromoto]

Thanks for the advise Leatherhands. I'll try installing a new tip for each sheet (that's about 80 minutes of cut time), and a new electrode every two sheets, as you have suggested. We already have our air supply running through an air dryer, so I think we're alright there.

[m230042]

The short Zen answer to this question is to listen to your torch. When a plasma tip is about to fail it will change sound. some times even whistle a bit. Also as the electrode becomes consumed and the arc comes off the hafimum slug you will notice the arc change color to a greenish hue as the surrounding copper is consumed.
Torch tip life rules of thumb: Always have the arc over metal. No this is hard on circles but easy on your application.

Zen idea of nozzle life: The arc is a swirlling tornado of plasma gas being forced into the orifice of the nozzle buy the gas pressure you set. Being a plasma it conducts electricity, electricity seeks a ground. If at any time you take the torch away from its ground the arc will want to stay connected to the ground pulling the arc toward it. This arc is hot very hot and doesn't care what it melts. This is what causes the nozzles to become out of round. Any time it's not transfering it's heat evenly buy having material to cut directly underneath it it will destroy the nozzle. This includes running off the plate, to long of a pierce delay after the plasma starts to cut. (as soon as it blows through it should be moving) and finaly, speed to slow. Nothing will save the electrode or extend it's life as this is just like tungston in a tig torch. Water in the line and leaks in the hoses have an effect on cut quality and to some extent nozzle life. Also a clean swirl ring is important and maybe the number one reason to use good filtration. A clogged hole in the swirl ring causes an imballance in the plasma chamber causeing the arc to pull to one side right out of the nozzle. Yep this destroys a nozzle after the first pierce. Fireing the torch in the air, the pilot should be stright when viewed from two directions. if it pulls, with new electrodes and nozzles, change the swirll ring. Testing in this fasion doesn't do much damage to the nozzle.

Gas pressure: lowering the gas pressure heats the nozzle and tips but cuts thicker. ( I did not tell you to do this) Raising the gas pressure cools the torch parts more but also cools the plasma stream. Way too much gas pressure and the ionized gas never makes a plasma and won't fire. Way too low and the machine turns off from a safety switch to save the torch from melting.

Hope this helps.
Marv
Cuttingmachinerepair.com ( simi-Retired/disabled)

[Heatherjo350]

I have a hyperthem HPR260 on a Multicam 3000 table, I was getting about 2 sheets per consumable, The pierces is what would wear my consumables so depending on what I was cutting would determine how long my consumables would last, I read in the manufactures recommendation that switch my purging gas from compressed air to nitrogen, I noticed a slight difference in that, Then I changed my coolant and filter, noticed that when multicam setup my machine they put a different coolant in it, I switched to the hypertherms coolant and now I get two days out of a set of consumables, my most common cut size is 5/16 and 3/8 I typically burn about 10 4X8 sheets a day. Might be worth looking into

[m230042]

in my testing with the hpr260 i was getting 1200+ pierces and still cutting well when I stopped testing the machine. I was cutting one inch holes in 3/8" 100 at a time and repeating. see above for the zen art... the torch must be moving at speed after it pierces.. also use the smallest tip for the thickness you should be using 130 tips for 3/8". The coolant didn't change that it that much and if it did you are overheating your torch. Ensure that the inlet gas pressure is correct to the manual as thyis sets the proper ratio on the flow meters. you can get the proper flow setting with out the proper volume setting. the gauges are calibrated only when the input is set correctly.

Marv

[highlandjeeper]

I also work with a Multicam 3000 and a Hypertherm HPR260. 1/4" - 1/2" is what we mainly cut. Now that we have been running it for almost a year we have it figured out pretty good. Consumables seem to last decently (easily 12 sheets of 1/4" x 6' x 12' with lots of pierces). I don't normally keep track of number of pierces as we change tips for different materials many times a day. I just keep checking the cut quality and measure the electrodes frequently to maintain a good cut quality. The only times we burn up comsumables prematurely is when we have a problem (usually related to a cutting gas).