Knowing your machine in and out....
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Knowing your machine in and out....
I built my machine from a PPLC kit and CandCNC command cnc. So this morning i needed to cut out some simple plates for columns. The first plate less than half way thru, it goes into E-stop. Hmmm, strange, take it out of e-stop go to the last M5 and run from that M5 line. Finished that plate without incident. I only cut one out to make sure I was good with the holes and fitment on the square column tubes. Good to go. So I try and position to the Y to the next clean plate. E-stop again. Go to diag screen. Y-Home/Limit light on steady. Play with the switch a little no change. Still steady on.
All my wires are color coded in regards to different components so I can trace to the controller. I have my wires in the cable management chain. Did a check on those to see if anything was pinched. All good. Break out the continuity tester and test the switch both ways. NO and NC. All good. Beeps both ways. I then was taking off the wires and was going to check the continuity back to the controller. All my wires are soldered and shrink tube. When I went to take the common off i noticed the wire was wiggly and weak just before the soldered ring terminal. Found it. I thought. Not so fast. I stripped that wire back and just used the wire to connect it back to the switch. Still not fixed and LED for Y-Home/Limit still on. Take off the NC closed wire and that too was broken at the solder joint too. I just crimped some terminals on to get me cutting. All good.
I am glad that I wired my own table and made a diagram to refer to. However I knew exactly where to start and not just going to the controller and opening the unit up wasting time trying to eyeball and find the issue.
T.J.
All my wires are color coded in regards to different components so I can trace to the controller. I have my wires in the cable management chain. Did a check on those to see if anything was pinched. All good. Break out the continuity tester and test the switch both ways. NO and NC. All good. Beeps both ways. I then was taking off the wires and was going to check the continuity back to the controller. All my wires are soldered and shrink tube. When I went to take the common off i noticed the wire was wiggly and weak just before the soldered ring terminal. Found it. I thought. Not so fast. I stripped that wire back and just used the wire to connect it back to the switch. Still not fixed and LED for Y-Home/Limit still on. Take off the NC closed wire and that too was broken at the solder joint too. I just crimped some terminals on to get me cutting. All good.
I am glad that I wired my own table and made a diagram to refer to. However I knew exactly where to start and not just going to the controller and opening the unit up wasting time trying to eyeball and find the issue.
T.J.
- acourtjester
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
Great plus for DIY is understanding the inner working of your table. Documentation is great when you have it too.
DIY 4X4 Plasma/Router Table
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
That's an interesting story! From past experience - for wires that will see movement and/or vibration stress - I have found that crimp only for the ring terminals if preferred over soldering, as the solder tends to make the connection brittle and prone to failure as you have described.
David
David
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
The fact you had visual indicators on the inputs at the I/O card and have diagnostics in the software makes tracking it down a lot faster.
- acourtjester
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
When making up the cable I use on my tables, for the aviation type connecters I full them up with hot glue and out the back for a good flexible joint
For single point connections I use the wire ferrules which are crimp on, they come in different sizes for different wire sizes or you can twist additional wires into a larger ferrule over bunching single ferrules to a single terminal.
For single point connections I use the wire ferrules which are crimp on, they come in different sizes for different wire sizes or you can twist additional wires into a larger ferrule over bunching single ferrules to a single terminal.
DIY 4X4 Plasma/Router Table
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
Is it better to solder or crimp wires together?
Crimped connections are more flexible, heat-resistant and vibration-resistant than soldered ones which have greater potential for wire fatigue and stiffening. Crimping is often more consistent than soldering, which can vary according to method or technician.
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
What also helped is my monitor being able to swivel and extend as I was able to see it while fiddling with the switch. Can get these at mono price dot com for a pretty good price. Of course I cut mine up and modified it to fit my cart.
T.J.
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
Here are some pics. First pic is where the solder broke. Second pic is a quick and dirty fix to get me cutting again.
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- acourtjester
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
Not to be a snob but there are better crimpers for those connecters. If you look at the connecter it is a rolled tubular design which can spread when crimped. The Klein tool crimpers have a spike the comes from the under side of the roll and stops the roll from spreading while crimping the connecters.
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DIY 4X4 Plasma/Router Table
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
The crimpers I use are from when I worked at a GM dealer. They dual purpose for weatherpak as well as regular insulated crimper. There is a J tool part number on these.
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
Here are some of mine. I particularly like the CrimpMaster ratcheting crimpers for these sorts of applications. I have had mine for probably 40 years or so.
For insulated crimp-on connectors.
For non-insulated crimp-on connectors. Here are some I use for the Amp style connector pins.
It's always interesting to see what tools others are using.
David
For insulated crimp-on connectors.
For non-insulated crimp-on connectors. Here are some I use for the Amp style connector pins.
It's always interesting to see what tools others are using.
David
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- acourtjester
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Re: Knowing your machine in and out....
me too.
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DIY 4X4 Plasma/Router Table
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT