Consumables?

[cstroke]

I dont know if I've ever seen this topic before.
How do you guys store your consumables so you know how far they are in their usable life?
45 amp fine cut, 45 amp shielded, 65 amp shielded, 85 amp shielded...
I used to mark how many pierces with a marker and keep them as a set.
I've been starting to quote consumables in on the work based on experience that the consumables should be at the end of their usable life after the cut.
Thoughts???
Thanks
Chris

[adbuch]

I typically keep mine together as a set (cap, swirl ring, electrode, nozzle). I use FineCut consumables for material up to 11 ga. (I don't cut 10 ga.), and 85 Amp consumables for everything else. Both shielded with ohmic sensing caps. I just keep an eye on the electrode tip and nozzle orifice, and replace as necessary to maintain quality cutting. I'm not doing cnc plasma cutting for a living, my main thing is cnc machining - mainly the tooling and dies I offer for sale to the metal shaping community. When I used to do commercial work, I would figure the cost of the carbide inserts and cutters/endmills into the quote, particularly if custom tooling was required for the job.
David

https://www.desert-hybrids.com/id63.html

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[DieselFumes]

I don't get too picky at all. I keep used nozzles and electrodes that have life left in them and will pull them out for jobs that don't really matter about optimum cut quality. I don;t bother to store them as sets, I just have a spot for used nozzles and used electrodes. If the hole in the nozzle is out of round or too large it gets thrown out, if the electrode divet is around 1/16" deep it gets thrown out.

[East German]

I keep a close eye on wear and tear. I enter in an Excel list when the wear parts are used. I find it very interesting to see how long they last. I would like to know whether an electrode for 15 € lasts longer than a replica for 4 €. I just had a set that held 2033 starts and 5 hours of cutting time and it still cuts quite well.

Peter

[SeanP]

Must admit if I swap to finecut from 45a I tend to swap the whole retaining cap, swirl ring and shield and keep them together.
But using same parts I tend to mix and match, I'd agree there 1.5mm divot is about limit for me as well.

I find if the nozzle gets any spatter or slight marking (not out of round) the pierce suffers, especially on 10mm & 12mm with my 45a so what I do quite a bit is put a piece of 8mm bar in the battery drill, slip on the nozzle and a quick spin pressing on some 320 grit on a flat surface till flat again, it takes very little off, works well for me! it's surprising just how much more you can get from a nozzle doing that, I'm sure some won't like the idea though.

[East German]

I've already tried to grind the nozzles inside and outside, but the result didn't convince me.

Peter

[adbuch]

I've already tried to grind the nozzles inside and outside, but the result didn't convince me.

Peter

I could see cleaning spatter from the nozzle, perhaps with a red scotchbrite pad. But I'm not sure about grinding - Jim Colt would probably suggest replacing with new consumables.
David

[SeanP]

I've already tried to grind the nozzles inside and outside, but the result didn't convince me.

Peter

Jim Colt would probably suggest replacing with new consumables.
David

I'm sure he would!! it really does work, I have been using the same set all day today, machine has been going non stop, 3 times I have cleaned the nozzle face like this, each time it got cut quality and edge squareness good again, I have measured it with calipers taking very little off, perhaps .05mm each time.
Wire wool is way better than scotchbrite on copper I find, I use coarse wool on the shield and a quick touch of fine after cleaning the nozzle, again on a flat surface after the 320 grit.

[adbuch]

Sean,
Those look good! I misunderstood (didn't read your post completely) and thought you were spinning the drill tool on the inside of the nozzle.
David