Wood routing tips

[djreiswig]

Going to try a little wood routing. Any tips? I still need to build the router mount. I read that I should lock down the floating head, but it looks like I have to remove the mag mount plate to get to the screws. Is this correct?
I also need to make a level spoil board. Thinking of spanning the water pan with some angle and using some plywood. Then I will shim the angle to get everything level.
I think the rotary tools in SheetCam should be pretty straightforward. I guess the depths and feedrates are dependent of what one is cutting. Will just have to experiment.
Any tips are greatly appreciated.

[acourtjester]

If you are running Mach you may want to create a new profile for routing and un-able the floating head signal. and if you use a ohmic sensor you can use that for tool changes, with a touch plate setup to auto zero the bit tip. I did some changes to the screen set for the router profile for tool change and Probe indicator on the main screen. also use a generic prot processor to remove function you don't need for routing.
Here is the video showing how to do that by a guy called CNCnutz. little long but good info
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1Siihp0nSo&t=902s

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[djreiswig]

Thanks for the info. I've seen some of your routing videos.

I have customized my screenset for plasma, and will definitely make a new profile. I like his auto zero button, and will probably grab that from his site. For the touch plate, do you just use your ohmic and hook the wire from the shield to the touch plate and wire the router frame to the plate connection? I'm thinking the router could possibly already be connected to the table frame through the gantry.

I was wondering if the floating head needs to be locked down so when the router plunges it doesn't slide up.

[acourtjester]

Yes if you want to use the same mounting.
I used 2 mounting plates one for Plasma with the floating head assembly and the other for the router so it is hard mounted to the Z axis.
I had to reconfigure the wiring as like you said the router was electrically connected to the frame, so I ran another wire to the touch plate for the probe signal. I just put a double throw switch in the probe circuit to switch between the torch tip and the touch plate, just flip the switch of the function you want. I ran a wire around my spoil board with places where the insulation was remove for me to attach an alligator clip that was attached to the touch plate so I could move it around. I used a slightly different touch off routine the thickness of the touch plate is entered about in the middle where is says Change 0.060" to your plate thickness. Both routines have a pause at the start to give you time to place the plate under the bit then it moves the Z down very slowly. Good info about "F-Engrave"
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... e+tutorial

Auto tool Change code.docx

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[BTA Plasma]

The older Star Lab without the Proton Z axis has a unique antibacklash system we designed that can be tightened up for routering on the machine. The 4 shoulder bolts simply tighten into the nut and lock the Z axis back plate in a fixed position eliminating the float feature. The older Z axis has a super long service life and was built with a thrust bearing system. So it should handle routing well! The Proton Z uses a similar principal however it is 100% rigid and will handle over 1000lbs of thrust. The floating feature is available as an aftermarket item for the Proton Z and it will retain the collision sensor as well as the magnetic break away. When ever possible an upgrade to the Proton can be done and is retrofit on an older Star Lab.

[djreiswig]

How large of a router are you using? I have a Ryobi that I think says 2 hp.
My z is on a ball screw, so I will have to find some way to lock it down.
Are the holes in your spoil board just from hold downs?
F-Engrave looks like a pretty neat program. Do I read correctly that it is free?

[djreiswig]

Hey Matt, I was hoping you'd reply.
I looked at my mag mount plate, and it looks like I have to remove the aluminum piece with the magnets to access those shoulder bolts. Is that correct? I might have to have someone mill some access holes so I don't have to take it off every time I want to switch.

[acourtjester]

I have a Porter Cable 2.25 HP, The holes in the spoil board have threaded inserts installed from the underside so they will not come out. I use a few different types of hold downs with 1/4" bolts.

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[acourtjester]

F-Engrave is free and he also has another program that is free too. It will rout 3D carvings from images, it converts shades to depth. It is called Dmap2gcode. and I found another one that will take g-code and convert to 3D simulations, called CAMotiocs.

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[BTA Plasma]

David have you tried routing yet?

[djreiswig]

Not yet. It's still on my to do list, along with finishing my rotary chuck and cutting some pipe. Not enough hours in the day.