Welding Fume Extractor

[msimpson99]

I own several welders, MIG, TIG, Stick, and flux core.

I needed to do some down and dirty flux core welds for a project I am working on, but it was raining, so I couldn't do them outside.

My CNCCS plasma built is 100% downdraft venting outside so I through this together:

_MG_5939.jpg

Its simply a 12" x 12" piece of 16 Gauge steel sitting on the slats on the front of my machine.
It works very well, I get no fumes or smoke in my shop at all when the downdraft is turned on. Not that the downdraft is too much for any kind of TIG or even MIG welding unless I close the damper on the downdraft.

For larger welding projects, I will be making a insert that sits on the table and tuns a duct to my welding table for a more traditional fume extractor.

[Mtw fdu]

Not trying to be picky, but it looks as though the weld has not connected to the bottom plate properly. The bead should flow easier than that.

Mtw fdu.

[msimpson99]

Maybe if I was doing MIG it might seem to flow better, but with flux core these little welds work perfect to weld the nut to the washer. I do three welds, and they are not going anywhere. The welder is a little titanium 125 flux core and I love it. Once I clean them up with a wire brush they powder coat great. I will say that this is one of my first welds with this welder. And after working on the whole chess set I have the welds dialed in perfectly for this project.

IE this is a chess set not a receiver hitch. My problem on the early ones was that it was too hot and would oftain tear up the washer. I now do the weld at a much lower voltage and wire speed.

The idea with the post was not on the quality of the welds but on the down draft table taking care of the awful smoke and dangerous fumes. Not a bit of smell or smoke in the shop. Believe me I have had welding fever doing extensive welding of zinc hardware, its not fun.

[Mtw fdu]

I too have had a lot of experience welding zinc (we call it galvanised steel here down under) probably 20 years plus. There are tricks of the trade when welding it.

I could not see the washer you were trying to weld.

Mtw fdu.

[msimpson99]

What are some of the tricks of the trade, how bout sharing some.

I have an Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT and just love it. I taught myself how to TIG weld using that welder. But its not very forgiving, and doing Zinc stuff, forget about it.

I also have an Everlast Power MTS 251Si, MIG, TIG and Stick. I love this welder as well, but its a beast.

I purchased the Titanium to show the beginners, you can use one of these welders to complete a great many projects. It is a far cry from the original HF flux welder. For one you have pretty good control over the voltage and wire speed.Aside from the smoke that flux core wire creates, I have been getting some really nice welds from it. It works very well on the Zinc stuff and with the downdraft, I have been able to get away with not using a respirator.

One funny thing, is I find myself holding the torch over the weld after I am finished so that the post flow will keep the weld from oxidizing. I know this is crazy with flux core, but this habit is hard to break, and does not really hurt anything.

[Ironken]

I am not an erechicken but my concern with welding on a cnc especially with GTAW is that the HF start could damage the electronics of the cnc. Otherwise, a good idea if you have a down draft table.

If you have a gas valve equipped power source, you may try GMAW, much better than FCAW on small stuff like that but not as tolerant of galvanized material. I always grind galvanized before smokin' it personally.

For reeely heavy galvanized material that packs up your grinding wheels, I have used 6022 to burn a root in, wire wheel and follow up with 7018 or 7024 depending on the joint.

[msimpson99]

If doing TIG, the HF start would indeed mess with the electronics. While I have never damaged anything, I have caused a PC or two to reset.
When I am using the downdraft like this. The CNC is off. The downdraft is controlled separately, so I can do things just like this. I have used the downdraft for hand plasma cutting, grinding, and painting.

My ultimate goal is to just make a light weight cover that sits on part of the table. I could then run a couple 6" or 8" flexible hoses out and over a small welding table.

[msimpson99]

Here is a pic of the chess set I am working on.

_MG_5947.jpg

I still have a few pieces to make, and will probably write it up as a project on the website. Makes a great beginner project.

Note, you can see where I blew out some of the washers on the pawns.

[msimpson99]

After two iterations, I have a finally completed the nuts and bolt chess pieces write-up.
See them here:
https://www.kronosrobotics.com/nutbolt-chess-pieces

[ctgolfer1]

That is pretty cool. I like your well-done wright up.
Now if you would make a chess board , that would be cool.
Plasma cut a board out of 1/4" plate, just cutting every other square and cut some 1/4" stainless squares, tack it on a backer 10 ga sheet.
Maybe intentionally leave a 3/16" kerf and fill it with silver solder or brazing rod, sand the whole thing down and hit it with steel FX.

Sounds easy.....
Nice job!

[msimpson99]

Yep, a metal chess board would be neat. It will be very heavy so it would need to be mounted on some sort of stand.

The nuts and bolt pieces would be a good project for a beginner with a flux core welder.
I do plan on some chess pieces welded up from some plasma cut parts. I can see some different designs here.

I would also like to experiment with some different patinas, but dont know where to even start with that.

[DXF]

Why not use a high temp loctite that will withstand the temp of powder coating? No welds needed.

Dave Hanks

[msimpson99]

The welding is for a base. One 3/8" nut welded to a 3/8" washer. The washer is the bottom of the piece. Locktight wont work of this.

That said, they could be brazed or even epoxied. It is only the base that is welded. all the other parts are just screwed into place and tightened.