Cutmaster a120 amperage draw

[OTHill]

Hi i'm comparing Hypertherm 65 Plasma cutters with TD A120.The amperage draw on the TD is 120 max.and it will only pierce 5/8" The HT 65 amperage draw is 44 at 230V and it will also pierce 5/8".Whats up?

[gsi]

Where did you find that info? I have an A100 and it has no issues piercing 1" plate.

[Brand X]

The 120A has a Production Peirce rating at 5/8. Every manual has the 120 rated at a .750.. Some manuals have a delay of .080 seconds for 100 amp .750 Mild steel pierce, and a 1.5 seconds for 120 amps. So as you can see you cannot go by the manuals with a victor machine. I can find different settings all throughout the different manuals on the cutmaster line, even though they all use the same exact torch. Some are correct, and some are way off the mark.. The A-60 is the same power (cutmaster 82 @80 amps) as the Hypertherm 65.. Both are around 9 kilowatt machines.. Both rated for 5/8 MS pierce. How do know? I have both machine, and had a A-40 /A-120 plus others..A -120 is a 15 K plus machine. Duty-cycle is way better on the A-120, then on the Hypertherm 65 of Cutmaster A-60 (82)

The Cutmaster A-120 is still the most powerful 1/3 phase machine made.,and the amp draw at full output/ arc stretch is the only real rating that is correct in the manual.. 118 @ 240 volt 1phase input. It will do it real easy too..

[OTHill]

Seems a little sad if you can't go by the manual.What do you go by than.I'm looking at buying a Fastcut table and it has a 120A with it.I would rather have a HT. Whats a 120A worth 5 years old with a hand and machine torch?

[Brand X]

Victor has been that way for 12-13 years. Not a big secret..You go by making cuts,, and recording where it cuts best.. If the machine is in great shape you could get about $2000.00 top price. Probably less.. Area seems to be a key for Plasma machines. I could not give away my almost new Hypertherm 65, and the victors I sold went real fast.. Hard to figure sometimes? Like their charts... I can get cuts just as nice or better with my Victor machines,depending on exactly what i am cutting.(not always though) Most people are way ahead of the game just getting a Hypertherm, and not going through the very long learning curve.. Best just to put the Hypertherm on the table, and use the Victors in the manual arena.. Looks like Thermacut is making a new torch that will fit the Victor machines.. Should be a game changer for the older machines.. It will fit Hypertherm too..Took forever to get around the ATC patent on the Victors. Reminds me my new consumables from Thermacut should be here for my Hypertherm.

[OTHill]

That is great info!! Have you been using Thermacut consumables for a while? Are they much cheaper?Thanks so much.Allan

[Brand X]

No,
they are sending some out for me to try for free, so no idea on the cost.. I just emailed them, and told them I am just Joe blow working in my home shop, and they contacted me back. Talked for about 1/2 hour to the rep in NH, and was very impressed with his knowledge. Good guys either way..I am really looking forward to the victor retro stuff..

Anybody going to Fabtech should check them out.. Their booth is right by the sister company... Binzel.... They know how to build quality things too.. Like world class.

[OTHill]

Thanks so much. I appreciate It.

[Brand X]

Here is one that sold on E-bay today.. About your year, but a real pig in a poke..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112167171913?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

[OTHill]

That's interesting Thanks

[SeanP]

I have been using the thermocut electrodes for a while now, seem good to me.

BrandX, I see now I did try the nozzles as well, didn't see any difference if I remember right.
The electrodes seem to last well enough.
Not sure they have these price right way around, so I only buy electrodes from them now

Prices are euro

parts.jpg

[Brand X]

I would be guessing the the nozzles/ electrodes would be more similar on the 45, then the 45XP-65-85-etc..machines..They have to have a completely different electrode, and swirl ring, nozzle, cup, and shield to get around the patents. Which they seem to do well with them..Speed is excellent, and probably a bit better for best quality settings. (med range instead of slower Best quality. .250 MS was about 12 ipm faster..
I think it is best to use all of their part including swirl rings, if you use their stuff.. 65 machines for sure..

Only a few cuts so far, because I was messing with a loose motor Z set screw. Talk about screwing with your THC setting.. Drove me nuts until I got it to totally slip..Then I found the problem..THC works perfect again..(DTHC IV)

[Brand X]

I have been using the thermocut electrodes for a while now, seem good to me.

BrandX, I see now I did try the nozzles as well, didn't see any difference if I remember right.
The electrodes seem to last well enough.
Not sure they have these price right way around, so I only buy electrodes from them now

Prices are euro

parts.jpg

I was looking at the Thermacut 45 amp nozzles for the Powermax 65, and noticed they have step inside like the factory nozzles.. One difference is what looked like a tapered nozzle inside the bore, so tapered, and then transitioned to straight.. Looks like they put the squeeze on the arc there.. I think that what I am seeing? Anyway, different setup from yours.If you want to help on the bevel issues .250 only,,Might try turning down the amps to 40, cut speed to 44, and volts somewhere below 125. (Just a guess on your setup..) I liked mine better then 45 amps..Mine was 125 volts, and dead on .060 cut height..

[SeanP]

I have been using the thermocut electrodes for a while now, seem good to me.

BrandX, I see now I did try the nozzles as well, didn't see any difference if I remember right.
The electrodes seem to last well enough.
Not sure they have these price right way around, so I only buy electrodes from them now

Prices are euro

parts.jpg

I was looking at the Thermacut 45 amp nozzles for the Powermax 65, and noticed they have step inside like the factory nozzles.. One difference is what looked like a tapered nozzle inside the bore, so tapered, and then transitioned to straight.. Looks like they put the squeeze on the arc there.. I think that what I am seeing? Anyway, different setup from yours.If you want to help on the bevel issues .250 only,,Might try turning down the amps to 40, cut speed to 44, and volts somewhere below 125. (Just a guess on your setup..) I liked mine better then 45 amps..Mine was 125 volts, and dead on .060 cut height..

Thanks for the info, 1/4'' is probably the one I have least bother with really, it does do really well at that thickness.
I might try it though just out of curiosity

[exapprentice]

Hi OTHill, Brand X & SeanP

Still being new at this game (black art )

can I post this question in this post

I know that as far as manufactures are concerned speed is the goal to achieve better output, but, is there any correlation in settings going the other way?.

That is slowing things down, has anyone tried to reduce amps, volts and feed rates and plotted the numbers to see if its possible to slow the feed rates down but still maintain the optimum cut quality.

I accept if you wander too far off the book spec's then things will quickly deteriorate but is there a little wiggle room to reduce the feed rates at the thinner end of the material range 14swg (2mm) and below.

I have recently started cutting some thicker materials 3/8" (10mm) and it was really a pleasure, so sedate and calm compared to cutting 20swg (0.9mm)

Anyone gone the route of slowing things down and reducing settings accordingly

[Brand X]

I had excellent luck doing the exact same things. I think when you have limited nozzle sizes available there will be ranges where you really can improve the Bevel/ cut face quality by doing so..I notice many people can get good cut with book speeds, but I also notice some top edge rounding on a lot of those cuts too..Mostly in the thinner stuff. You have to remember, that all steel is not the same.. When Victor has two or three different cut speeds in different Manuals, you are forced to experiment. I generally try for best quality book settings first, and almost never lower the cut speeds/amps first thing..(Depending on which Victors book specs) I will look at the arc,bevel, cut face,then dross, and see if speeding up will improve the cut for me.. If I can't get anywhere with that one,. I start looking for lower amps, smaller nozzles,reduced cutting speeds.. Might get worse dross, but the benefit is a way more to what I want out of a cut..

The engineers might cut way more steel to get their settings, but they are not using my table,setup, or steel. Plus they just might feel all things are the most important ,then some of exact things you are looking for.. by experimenting, you start to see what your machine, setup is telling you.. I was looking at some 3/4 in steel I cut with the victor last night.. Really beautiful cuts.. not really in any book but dang...