Editing lots of start points

[SeanP]

Thought it was worth asking, is there a easy way to change the start point on lots of holes without doing each one separately?

It wouldn't be the first time I'm missing something obvious, I have had it a few times changing every hole on these mesh jobs

start.jpg

[Les Newell]

Do you want to change the position or the cut order? You can change the cut order using the 'quick cut sequence' right-click menu option.

[SeanP]

It's the start position Les, the ones below I have changed, the ones above are where it automatically chooses to start the cut, they always seem to close to a corner though.
Just this second about to go through them all
Thanks for the quick reply.

[SeanP]

See what I mean, and then when you realize you forgot to round off the sharp points on the drawing,,,,boll**cks

Clip.jpg

[Capstone]

I'll chime in with this as an ask for improvement with SheetCAM. I am pretty sure that the default start points and my DTHC IV are in complete disagreement on how best to do things and as a result, I've broken my machine torch.

How? Well the default lead ins are in the corners and as I found out too late, that forces the torch back on itself and just in time for the DTHC to shove the torch into hole it just cut looking for the correct voltage. I had to go through and move all of the lead-ins, just like Sean is asking for. But that wasn't enough.

On top of that, the "Minimum DTHC Distance" appears to be cumulative, which means that if you want all of your inside cuts to be done WITHOUT DTHC kicking in for the reason mentioned above, you have to set it to however many inches the ENTIRE cut is before it "listens" to what you want, which in the case of all of these small inside cuts was "Don't turn on the DTHC on all of these small cuts!!" I didn't realize this and set it to 5 inches, knowing that none of the separate cuts were that long thinking this would prevent the DTHC from coming on until it got to the outside final cut, but instead, it just meant that after cutting 4 holes, it would go back to trying the DTHC right away and again, start dragging the torch and messing up the 15mins of cutting I had just managed to white-knuckle through for the 8th time...

not such a fun day for me and my table. burned an entire day and half a sheet of 14ga trying to finish cuts that got ruined every damn time because the G-code had to be "tricked" into not diving into the metal. Unfortunately, the damage was already done and now my machine torch won't function correctly with touch-off's. You'd think that between EtherCUT, SheetCAM and all the other tech, this kind of issue would have been addressed by now, but I still am forced to be some kind of fricken wizard to get my machine to just cut the shapes I tell it too. Sorry Sean.. on a rant.

[Les Newell]

It's the start position Les, the ones below I have changed, the ones above are where it automatically chooses to start the cut, they always seem to close to a corner though.

The default position for a start point is at the start of the outline as it was drawn. I could add an option to automatically move start points away from corners on inside offsets.

[Les Newell]

I didn't realize this and set it to 5 inches, knowing that none of the separate cuts were that long thinking this would prevent the DTHC from coming on until it got to the outside final cut, but instead, it just meant that after cutting 4 holes, it would go back to trying the DTHC right away and again, start dragging the torch and messing up the 15mins of cutting I had just managed to white-knuckle through for the 8th time...

I am sorry to hear your torch was damaged. That sounds like a bug in the DTHC logic. Does your setup have g-codes for turning THC off and on? If so you could use path rules to force DTHC off on the smaller shapes.

[Capstone]

I didn't realize this and set it to 5 inches, knowing that none of the separate cuts were that long thinking this would prevent the DTHC from coming on until it got to the outside final cut, but instead, it just meant that after cutting 4 holes, it would go back to trying the DTHC right away and again, start dragging the torch and messing up the 15mins of cutting I had just managed to white-knuckle through for the 8th time...

I am sorry to hear your torch was damaged. That sounds like a bug in the DTHC logic. Does your setup have g-codes for turning THC off and on? If so you could use path rules to force DTHC off on the smaller shapes.

Les, I'll take a look again at the additional pathing options. I guess I'm just looking for a panacea and some kind of auto-cut without all additional steps. The artist in me just wants the tool to create my fairly simple vision without all of the additional engineering being required.

[SeanP]

Ah no worries, just thought I might have been missing something.
If you do think of something in the future to help with that I'm sure it will be much appreciated, I can't be alone

It's the start position Les, the ones below I have changed, the ones above are where it automatically chooses to start the cut, they always seem to close to a corner though.

The default position for a start point is at the start of the outline as it was drawn. I could add an option to automatically move start points away from corners on inside offsets.

[SeanP]

Oh heck sounds like you have had a rough day there Phil!
You probably know it now, but you really should have had a mag torch mount of some sort, luckily that was on my job list before I got cutting, I would have broken no end of torches by now if I hadn't.
I know how you feel trying to get to grips with the dthc, it's tricky enough!
As usual with these things there are a few ways to go about these tasks, maybe using the dthc delay will help, having a cut rule to turn off dthc on small shapes with 60% reduced feedrate works wonders for both hole quality and torch dives.

[Capstone]

Oh heck sounds like you have had a rough day there Phil!
You probably know it now, but you really should have had a mag torch mount of some sort, luckily that was on my job list before I got cutting, I would have broken no end of torches by now if I hadn't.
I know how you feel trying to get to grips with the dthc, it's tricky enough!
As usual with these things there are a few ways to go about these tasks, maybe using the dthc delay will help, having a cut rule to turn off dthc on small shapes with 60% reduced feedrate works wonders for both hole quality and torch dives.

My "mag-torch" solution fights with the Velox CNC "Z" because of the force it puts on the metal before the touch-off switch trips. I know you've jimmied the springs and I tried that, but it's still too much force to keep the magnetics attached so I pretty much gave up on the break-away safety aspects, and put the "set-screws" all the way in to keep it from falling off every time it touches off, so even though technically it is a mag-torch, it's not working as intended. AND... I can't use the ohmic sensor with 30amp consumables so I now I just want to rebuild the entire table, starting with a better mag-torch setup and "Z", but this torch business has just frustrated.

[SeanP]

How far up the torch tube has it damaged? maybe you could cut it down, I know I looked inside once and thought you could get away with 1/2 the length, like the mini torch you see.
Ah bugger with your mag setup, I used 3 ball bearings sat 1/2 way in to locate in holes, works well.

[exapprentice]

Hi Sean

Just had to post this picture, goes to show nothing is original, just variations
The threads on this mesh / grille are 4mm wide

Mesh panel.jpg

when I cut these out I just went with whatever SheetCam gave me, couldn't be dragged down at the time trying to analyse it to much
you know what it can get like at times

Good luck

[SeanP]

Ahh just had to luck, thought there might have been a magical answer
umm maybe I should just do that, going through all 500 of the feckers again!

Nice job by the way, 30a tips? that's what I'm hoping to use on this job, not sure I have enough though, he wants 8 pieces

[exapprentice]

Hi Sean

Yep 30 amp tips

I seem to be using that set up more and more, just seems at times that the 45 amp is like trying to use a sledge hammer to crack a nut
Maybe when I feel the need or have the need to start cutting thicker materials 6mm and up then the 45's will come into there own.

If only Hypertherm made shielded 30 amp consumables for the PM45 (Mr Colt). Dont get me wrong I have learned to love the 30 amp setup especially on the thin stuff
Still get the odd (very odd and random) divot now and then which I dont understand (why in this spot but not at that spot) I dont understand but so far I have been able to get away with it, so its not a big problem (yet)

[SeanP]

Well that job turned out well, I had 8 of those panels to cut, started off with the 30a tips but they soon burnt out with all the pierces, one panel and the electrode was goosed, I'm not seeing much advantage with these to be honest apart from the slowdown, tried some 3mm lettering yesterday and they were terrible, loads of dross, swapped to 45a setup and it was fine.

IMG_6591.JPG

IMG_6684.JPG

New 30a consumables on 3mm, correct height,,, yuk!

IMG_6753.JPG

[muzza]

Nice looking job Sean.
Murray

[exapprentice]

Hi Sean

Now that's ugly, the lights are great but that cut on 3 mm is just ugly
I would stick with the 45 consumables

Really nice job Sean, good job your so far away from me

[muzza]

Your lights are great Sean but I had a customer send me this image to see if I could make him some pendant lights to get this effect, I'm sure yours would work without the cross bar.
Murray

ceiling lights.png

[SeanP]

Lol I like it
bet that was a surprise when they switched them on!